Well i drove to work this morning, pulled in and went to turn the engine off and nothing, it stayed running, so i opend the hood and manually shut the motor off by pushing the shutoff lever towards the firewall. Anyways, when i did this i noticed that one of the bolts that holds the plate on was missing and the other one was just hanging there not connected. I went to the hardware store and picked up another bolt like the one that was still present. My question is, i was able to get the bottom bolt back in and tighten up (not circled in red), but the top bolt would not thread in. It would go into the hole but i could pull it right out. It was like the threads inside the shutoff lever were stripped unless this bolt (the one circled in red) is a bigger size. I would not think that it is bigger, but maybe it is. I got the truck functioning correctly, but i want to put another bolt in the top mounting hole. Picture is for reference only. Any ideas, thanks

 

By top bolt I assume you mean the same one of four that holds the AFC cover on.
If so it's not all that uncommon for them to get stripped out since the housing is just aluminum. Some folks just tap them out to the next bigger size, usually SAE instead of metric.

 

no, not those bolts, have not gotten into the afc yet, if you look at the attached picture, you will see a red circle around one of the bolts, that is the one i am talking about, thanks

 

Just looked at mine and the bolt you have circled in red has a nut on the back (can kind of see it in the picture as well).

Just out of curiosity do any of the 12 Valves have that shut off lever? I haven't seen it before. I know the 24 valves have them but I never knew any 12 valves had one.

Hope that helps

 

Ya that bolt has a nut on the back. If you are in there just throw all that electrical stuff away and make a manual shut off. That is what I did.

 

thanks for the info, that makes sense that there is a nut on the back, i thought there was but since the bolt and nut fell off, i did not have any idea.

 

When you go back there and put a nut on use some lock tight on it.

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that hole isn't threaded.

 

thanks guys, fixed that up last night and now the shutoff solenoid decided to take a dump on me. It was working just fine before i pulled it off to put the bolts back in, also added 3k springs and new fuel plate and dvs, put it all back together and now it does not pull up anymore. I made a post about it in the Help section

 

I saw that... check the electrical connections very well - at the connector in the various states. There are two circuits:

Pull up - triggered by a high current relay when the key is in the "start" position.
Hold up - powered when the key is in the run position (& I believe in the start position).

Pull up is a high current winding that generates more force. If run too long, it will burn out the solenoid.

The solenoid rarely fails...

I had a relay failure, then about a year later, the solenoid died on me (jumper & meter tested, dead), I replaced it with a cable...

 

Yeah, the truck will start, as though the solenoid is being engagned when the key is in the start position, but as soon as the motor catches and you release the key and it goes to the run position, the motor dies. Its like the solenoid is getting the juice when the key is in the start position, but the solenoid wont hold up once the key goes back to the run position. The red wire on the three plugged prong wire harness has 12volts with key in the run position. The middle wire gives a burst of juice when you bump the key to start to suck up the solenoid rod, then the black wire is ground. So my thinking is that the red wire of the solenoid is bad and its not making a connection to the red wire from the wiring harness. Make Sense? Thanks

 

One more update, all wires have juice, the red wire witch energizes the relay with 12v and the middle wire witch gives that short bump of juice to pull the rod up. I can put the key to the run position and pull up on the solenoid rod, but it wont stay, it just falls back down, this leads me to believe that the solenoid is faulty. My friends have had 12 valves and they never had this type of symptom they could always pull the rod up by hand and it would stay up allowing them to start it. What do you think?

 

Solenoids rarely fail unless they are visibly burnt on the outside.
Try jumping straight to the battery before you replace it.
If you have 12+ in the run position I would suspect the ground.

 

It is not burnt on the outside, it looks brand new almost. where is the ground for these solenoids? I was going to run 12v to it via the outer red wire and the ground wire. Simulate the 12v and see if i can manually push the solenoid up by hand and see if it holds. I can turn the key to the on position and push up on the selonoid and it will not stay up.

 

You could run a jumper ground directly to the battery ground post, to check the factory ground system.

Floyd