fuel shut off solinoid? / convert to cable?
fuel shut off solinoid? / convert to cable?
My fuel solinoid broke. My truck still ran but was on "valet" mode. Anyways, once I figured out what happened, I opened the valve manually, truck runs good. I think its been malfuncioning for awhile too. Is there a down side to not relaceing it and hooking up a cable instead? Can you hurt anything when you turn the key off and not the engine? Not that I would do it for any reason, (the steering would lock etc) but nthing else happens right?
Any recommendations on converting to a cable operated fuel valve?
oh and could the valve be partially closed to control egt's? Or does in hurt the pump?
Any recommendations on converting to a cable operated fuel valve?
oh and could the valve be partially closed to control egt's? Or does in hurt the pump?
Could be the big relay above the master cylinder/booster. Or a problem with the fusible link on the blue wire that is attached to battery.

I had to replace the relay on my truck, a while back. Can be had cheaper than going to the dealler. Just a 30A relay. Or go here- http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/
I had to replace the relay on my truck, a while back. Can be had cheaper than going to the dealler. Just a 30A relay. Or go here- http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/
They also get very dirty if the boot is torn or gone, as most on here agree that the fuel solenoid is rarley the problem. As for shutting off the key while it is still running that is how most cool down timers work, turn key off, lock doors and walk, it will not hurt anything. If the solenoid turns out ok and just dirty from a torn boot, pick up a old bicycle tube and make your own boot. they work great. Goodluck,,,Rick
No no , it broke.....most of the solinoid fell apart. Part of the rod on the linkage to the engine and part of the solinoid (spring, bar and the broken end) sort of fell out and jammed up. Because it fell apart the valve was not opening all the way causing a "valet" mode if you drove it. Just out of fuel due to the valve only opening a small amount.
It does have 190k miles....I might be able to repair the solinoid, not with out welding it back together though, I just thought it would be just as easy to convert to a cable operated valve.
It does have 190k miles....I might be able to repair the solinoid, not with out welding it back together though, I just thought it would be just as easy to convert to a cable operated valve.
I would convert and semi hide it under the dash as a security deterent to unwanted drivers
. I would suggest a good grade of a cable. Let us know how it goes?? If mine ever gave me trouble I would go that route. Goodluck,,Rick
. I would suggest a good grade of a cable. Let us know how it goes?? If mine ever gave me trouble I would go that route. Goodluck,,Rick
I replaced mine with a semi style kill switch over a year ago.Ive been told by more than one tech, running with ignition off is ok,
It just takes some minor fabrication and your set.
Only downside, as i posted somewhere this morning, Is that youll need to find a way of stopping the cable from vibrating inside the housing.
The engine vibration follows the cable into the cab, Its like sombody is jingling keys in front of you all day.
It just takes some minor fabrication and your set.
Only downside, as i posted somewhere this morning, Is that youll need to find a way of stopping the cable from vibrating inside the housing.
The engine vibration follows the cable into the cab, Its like sombody is jingling keys in front of you all day.
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that was my first thought, the thing will be a pain if the sleeve ever has to come out, even with all that, still shakes inside the sleeve.
I dont want to much pressure to cause it to bind, thats why im thinking some heavy grease or somthing inside the sleeve.
I dont want to much pressure to cause it to bind, thats why im thinking some heavy grease or somthing inside the sleeve.
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