Have been thinking hard on what plate to go with, as i know im going to need all the low end fueling i can get. Does this mean go with a zero plate? Im lost to the differances in 0,10,100 plates could someone explain. And if i choose the 0 route isnt it the easiest to grind my self? Thanks guys

 

a 10 plate has mild fueling at the bottom good fueling in the middle and cuts fuel at the top.

A 100 acts like a 10 at the bottom but fuels hard at the top

a 0 fuels hard all the time of the three this plate will flow the most in the low end

 

but if you add injectors in the future seems like a 0 plate would give to much fuel unless you could afford a turbo. Thats why I went with a #8 plate, gives good fuel but is "proven" on paper, and if I add injectors I won't over fuel my turbo to bad (ddp2's). And I've heard #5 and #4 plates give better results then a 0 plate but for cost a 0 plate is free.

 

GO with a 100 plate of you are worried about the amount of fuel its a good FREE plate for a DD I run one and its great

 

May be i didnt say, but it is going to be track only no daily driving. Ive talked so about the project in the new 'conversion' section if yall are interested. Any pictures on home ground plates, dont want anyones secrets just how to get to a zero and sounds like maybe a 100 also. And no issue of overdoing in one area while waiting for parts, everything is being purchased and installed at the same time, if that helps with plate recemendations. Basicly full cuts, ? plate, afc work?, edm 435's, and either 66/71/14 or 66/74/14 pump, 4kGSK, 60# springs, and what ever else i can think of or is highly recomended besides twins and a cam change, not going there on the first year. Thanks guys!

 

zero plate

 

Thanks a bunch, but no........pictures???

 

Another question, i see in somes sigs. 'gutted afc housing' for racing is this the thing to do rather than adjustments? If so anyone care to explain the gutting process? Thanks again guys

 

Here you go.


Hmmm. Seem to be picture challenged today. How about a link. Post #2,

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=plate+profile

 

There is a bolt on the front of the AFC housing that holds the shaft in the AFC. If you take the AFC housing off and take this bolt out, you can remove the foot on the AFC. When you do that, the AFC will still move with the boost of the turbo, but there is nothing there to cut off fuel.

 

Thanks a bunch guys! Any other pump advise? Plates etc.............

 

Still didnt see any pictures, not sure if they didnt go through or if its my junky slow dial up computer. No dsl here in the sticks

 

I don't have a pic of a zero, but it is just flat, no profile at all, flush with the front of the mounting bracket part of the plate.

 

Here ya go, https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hp?photo=26367

I would personaly try to mimic a TST #4 plate, they are quite aggressive from what I hear. A zero plate would be the easiest. I have a stock plate I pulled out and many do if you want to test new shapes. I thought of mimiking a #4 plate but cut slightly more off since the TST plates are generated from computers and dyno tested for fuel where you want it, but thats just my opinion. Good luck and post some pics of the project!!

 

Thanks a lot thewished, im at a good point for pictures, and own a nice digital camrea- just not sure how to get them on here? Im excited about the project and will bother my wife for help w/ the photos. Thanks