Fuel & Oil Filter changes
12-07-2003, 07:00 PM
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Fuel & Oil Filter changes
Is there any "trick" or special knowledge I need to change the fuel fliter? A buddy of mine told me that I should check with you guys cuz some part of the process is a real PITA. Also..I looked at the oil filter and it looks like it's gonna be a PITA to get out too cuz there's a bunch of hoses and wires below it....
I'm looking for as much $.02 as I can get.....I gotta get my mileage up....13mpg highway unloaded is ridiculous!
Thanks
Todd
I'm looking for as much $.02 as I can get.....I gotta get my mileage up....13mpg highway unloaded is ridiculous!
Thanks
Todd
12-07-2003, 07:06 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
ive never really had any trouble changing either the fuel filter or the oil filter....some people think the fuel filter is hard to get to but ive never had any trouble you can get a primelock relocator kit if you dont like it...the oil filter you can change without taking anything off but if you want you can take the air intake tube off the turbo and its just right there 
12-07-2003, 07:27 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/oil_filter.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...filt_clean.htm
Hope this helps ya....
Yeah fill the filter housing with as much fuel as possible. And make sure u clean/replace the prefilter....less than $5 from Cummins.
PS....saying PSD on here will get yer mouth washed out with soap.... ;D - just kidding....good luck.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...filt_clean.htm
Hope this helps ya....
Yeah fill the filter housing with as much fuel as possible. And make sure u clean/replace the prefilter....less than $5 from Cummins.
PS....saying PSD on here will get yer mouth washed out with soap.... ;D - just kidding....good luck.
12-07-2003, 07:43 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
The primary fuel filter is pretty simple, remove the canister nut on top of the housing, drop the housing (keep an eye on the water in fuel sensor wiring), pull the old element, install the new one, and change the top seal. Keep an eye on the small o-ring on the canister tube, and be sure you change it with the new one that comes in the kit.
It is sometimes a good idea to also change the screen in the fuel heater (down by the lift pump, below the primary filter), if it has not be done for a few years. To do that you have a nut on the bottom of the housing that allows the housing to be taken apart. You need the O-ring kit and a new screen if you tackle this. Also make sure all the dirt and dust around the engine in that location has been washed away with brake cleaner or ether.
When done changing the filter and screen (optional), crack open the bleed bolt on top of the primary filter housing. It is the one on the line from the center of the housing that leads forward to the injection pump.
You are now ready for thumb exercises! You will need to prime the system, there is a small plunger covered in rubber on the lift pump (next to the fuel heater, under the primary filter, down on the side of the engine). That is the primer.
Push away on it until the fuel (and no air bubbles) is flowing out of the bleed bolt on top of the primary filter. Then tighten the bleed bolt and start the engine. It may miss a bit, just let it run until it finishes bleeding itself out.
Sometimes only 15-30 pushes of the primer are necessary, and other times you can spend several minutes. I always allow 20 minutes for this exercise, then am pleased when it only takes 5.
Sometimes, you can get an airlock that prevents you from being able to prime the injection pump. That usually only happens if the overflow valve is bad. But, if it does it is a pain.
What will happen is you will get clear fuel at the bleed bolt, but the truck will not start.
In that case, you will have to have some help. BARELY crack open the number one injector line (by the injector itself) and have someone crank the engine. When it quits blowing bubbles and only drools fuel, tighten it back up and go the the next. It usually will take three or four before it will start and run. When it starts and runs, even if it is missing let it run a bit and it will usually clear itself in 5-7 minutes. If it does not, then you can bleed each of the remaining ones with it running by just barely cracking them. WATCH YOUR HANDS!
Do not do more than just crack the injector lines open, and never get your hands or eyes near the diesel that is seeping out of the injector lines, it is under so much pressure it can blow right through your skin and kill you. Yes, I said it can kill you, so be real careful! Also, do not bleed the injectors with the exhaust manifold hot, or you have quite a fire. I keep a garden hose handy, just in case!
It is sometimes a good idea to also change the screen in the fuel heater (down by the lift pump, below the primary filter), if it has not be done for a few years. To do that you have a nut on the bottom of the housing that allows the housing to be taken apart. You need the O-ring kit and a new screen if you tackle this. Also make sure all the dirt and dust around the engine in that location has been washed away with brake cleaner or ether.
When done changing the filter and screen (optional), crack open the bleed bolt on top of the primary filter housing. It is the one on the line from the center of the housing that leads forward to the injection pump.
You are now ready for thumb exercises! You will need to prime the system, there is a small plunger covered in rubber on the lift pump (next to the fuel heater, under the primary filter, down on the side of the engine). That is the primer.
Push away on it until the fuel (and no air bubbles) is flowing out of the bleed bolt on top of the primary filter. Then tighten the bleed bolt and start the engine. It may miss a bit, just let it run until it finishes bleeding itself out.
Sometimes only 15-30 pushes of the primer are necessary, and other times you can spend several minutes. I always allow 20 minutes for this exercise, then am pleased when it only takes 5.
Sometimes, you can get an airlock that prevents you from being able to prime the injection pump. That usually only happens if the overflow valve is bad. But, if it does it is a pain.
What will happen is you will get clear fuel at the bleed bolt, but the truck will not start.
In that case, you will have to have some help. BARELY crack open the number one injector line (by the injector itself) and have someone crank the engine. When it quits blowing bubbles and only drools fuel, tighten it back up and go the the next. It usually will take three or four before it will start and run. When it starts and runs, even if it is missing let it run a bit and it will usually clear itself in 5-7 minutes. If it does not, then you can bleed each of the remaining ones with it running by just barely cracking them. WATCH YOUR HANDS!
Do not do more than just crack the injector lines open, and never get your hands or eyes near the diesel that is seeping out of the injector lines, it is under so much pressure it can blow right through your skin and kill you. Yes, I said it can kill you, so be real careful! Also, do not bleed the injectors with the exhaust manifold hot, or you have quite a fire. I keep a garden hose handy, just in case!
12-08-2003, 02:38 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
Forget all that and get yourself a PrimeLoc fuel filter relocation kit. They are better then gold. It relocates the fuel filter to the top of the engine and use the spin-on canaster type filter.
12-08-2003, 02:43 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
[quote author=y-knot link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220263 date=1070915916]
Forget all that and get yourself a PrimeLoc fuel filter relocation kit. They are better then gold. It relocates the fuel filter to the top of the engine and use the spin-on canaster type filter.
[/quote]Warning about using the PrimeLock on bombed trucks it can lead to premature pump failure. Do a search over on tdr there is alot of reading about this.
Forget all that and get yourself a PrimeLoc fuel filter relocation kit. They are better then gold. It relocates the fuel filter to the top of the engine and use the spin-on canaster type filter.
[/quote]Warning about using the PrimeLock on bombed trucks it can lead to premature pump failure. Do a search over on tdr there is alot of reading about this.
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12-09-2003, 04:12 AM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
[quote author=Watch This link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg219821 date=1070845599]
you can take the air intake tube off the turbo and its just right there
[/quote]
I might be wrong but I think that Cummins design the set up so that people would be more inclined to check the air filter while doing an oil change. ???
ramguy
you can take the air intake tube off the turbo and its just right there
[/quote]
I might be wrong but I think that Cummins design the set up so that people would be more inclined to check the air filter while doing an oil change. ???
ramguy
12-10-2003, 01:40 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
[quote author=Helicopter Dan link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220267 date=1070916184]
[quote author=y-knot link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220263 date=1070915916]
Forget all that and get yourself a PrimeLoc fuel filter relocation kit. They are better then gold. It relocates the fuel filter to the top of the engine and use the spin-on canaster type filter.
[/quote]Warning about using the PrimeLock on bombed trucks it can lead to premature pump failure. Do a search over on tdr there is alot of reading about this.
[/quote]
I believe that problem was limited to the 24 valve lift pumps...I have not seen any 12 valves with a problem yet.
[quote author=y-knot link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220263 date=1070915916]
Forget all that and get yourself a PrimeLoc fuel filter relocation kit. They are better then gold. It relocates the fuel filter to the top of the engine and use the spin-on canaster type filter.
[/quote]Warning about using the PrimeLock on bombed trucks it can lead to premature pump failure. Do a search over on tdr there is alot of reading about this.
[/quote]
I believe that problem was limited to the 24 valve lift pumps...I have not seen any 12 valves with a problem yet.
12-10-2003, 05:13 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
[quote author=Ramflasher link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg221515 date=1071085222]
[quote author=Helicopter Dan link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220267 date=1070916184]
[quote author=y-knot link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220263 date=1070915916]
Forget all that and get yourself a PrimeLoc fuel filter relocation kit. They are better then gold. It relocates the fuel filter to the top of the engine and use the spin-on canaster type filter.
[/quote]Warning about using the PrimeLock on bombed trucks it can lead to premature pump failure. Do a search over on tdr there is alot of reading about this.
[/quote]
I believe that problem was limited to the 24 valve lift pumps...I have not seen any 12 valves with a problem yet.
[/quote]It's been awhile since I read those posts but if I remember right you are correct, although on the higher hp 12v's there was a concern of fuel starvation(sp) due to the smaller fuel lines on the PrimeLock
[quote author=Helicopter Dan link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220267 date=1070916184]
[quote author=y-knot link=board=16;threadid=23416;start=0#msg220263 date=1070915916]
Forget all that and get yourself a PrimeLoc fuel filter relocation kit. They are better then gold. It relocates the fuel filter to the top of the engine and use the spin-on canaster type filter.
[/quote]Warning about using the PrimeLock on bombed trucks it can lead to premature pump failure. Do a search over on tdr there is alot of reading about this.
[/quote]
I believe that problem was limited to the 24 valve lift pumps...I have not seen any 12 valves with a problem yet.
[/quote]It's been awhile since I read those posts but if I remember right you are correct, although on the higher hp 12v's there was a concern of fuel starvation(sp) due to the smaller fuel lines on the PrimeLock
12-10-2003, 08:40 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
Guys..did the oil change, oil filter and fuel filter change today! Went pretty good. Just filled the fuel filter back up with clean diesel and she started right away! Had to order the pre-filter and will do that next week.Thanks for all your help so far......Hooking up to the same sled trailer I pulled last week tomorrow..hopefully it'll pull beter with fresh filters! Also took out the silencer ring....turbo isn't as loud as I expected...
12-11-2003, 08:54 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
Towed the sled trailer again......
Somebody please help.....this truck is a gutless dog!
I hate to have to say this on this board...But I'm missing my Powerstroke something fierce! :'(
Somebody please help.....this truck is a gutless dog!
I hate to have to say this on this board...But I'm missing my Powerstroke something fierce! :'(
12-14-2003, 06:02 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
Have you checked the overflow valve?You'll have low fuel pressure to the pump if it is bad.That could explain the low MPGs...Pretty easy to check it....I would'nt call a 98 12 valve gutless.It just needs a few tweeks and then nothing will hold it back
12-15-2003, 05:34 PM
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Re:Fuel & Oil Filter changes
You can take the overflow valve apart and stretch it. If it runs better and or more power, problem solved. But this is only temporary fix. It don't cost anything to try. Stretch to .550 inch free length. The smaller bolt head on top is all that needs to be removed. Just be careful, there is a spring, a check ball, and maybe a shim. Use a rag to prevent from falling into never never land.
I would also check your rubber fuel lines, do you have a cat. converter? See this for overflow location: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6336#msg206336
Good luck, Kevin
I would also check your rubber fuel lines, do you have a cat. converter? See this for overflow location: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6336#msg206336
Good luck, Kevin
