Hi , on the return fuel line i know it 5/16" ( i think) What would the supply fuel line size , i think i need to change them out as it getting harder to start after sitting for 4 to 5 days , if any one knows the 2 sizes of hose i need to get please let me know , how are the hoses installed , with clamps on both sides????? thanks
jman

 

The lines are 3/8" and 5/16".

 

hop on over to http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

Order yourself the Fuel hose replacement kit and while you are at it pick up a set of Heavy Duty starter contacts...probably as cheap as you will find.

 

I posted instructions over here a couple days ago> https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=48087

 

I just did mine last weekend. Not too bad as long as you have orangutan arms with a babies hand...

If I had seen that the rubber lines served no purpose, then I would have hard plumbed them. It appears the only reason for these rubber lines is that the engine came pre-plumbed from Cummins. After all, there are braided lines just after the small section of solid lines attached to the bell housing.

 

Think the reason hose is used in this section is to make pulling the trans easier.

I've abandoned the section on top of the bell housing and ran straight back to the tank with hose on a few rigs when the hard lines start leaking. Sometimes after battling with getting the rear end of the hose on the hard line the act of flexing it causes it to leak where the hold down tab is welded onto it, sometimes they leak all on their own.
Sure makes it a heck of a lot easier to do, you can see both ends then.

 

I ordered my line kit (and a solenoid) a few minutes ago, and printed out the text from the other post... Thanks Infidel!

 

ok i got some fuel hoses , got under the truck and this is what i seen, the return and feed lines have a push on fitting all most like the a,c lines , am i to cut the steel line right next to that fitting???? and on the other end by the frame, it looks like its just pushed on the steel lines , help
jman

 

No don't cut the lines, use a good pair of wire dikes and cut the factory clamps off. There is more room if you pull the starter, some like the top method, I have better luck from underneath and a good soft creeper, Ha Ha. After you get the new lines in zip tie them so as they do not rub. If you got the kit from fosters they are longer than needed and I leave them a bit longer as a habit and just secure them good. Goodluck,,,Rick

 

jman, are you talking about replacing the entire hard line with hose like I spoke of above?
If so the way I've done it is to cut the hard line just ahead of the place it makes two 90° bends right before the tank. After you remove a couple of hold down clamps the line will pull away easily from the frame and give enough room for a tubing cutter. I put electrical corrigated wire loom over the hose to protect it, tons of places to secure it from flopping around. Doing it this way takes about 7 feet of hose.

If you are only replacing the two foot section that ends on top of the bell housing it just has a screw clamp at both ends. Some years need a different size socket for each clamp, they aren't the same. I've aways accessed it from the top but some folks like to come in from the bottom after removing the starter.

 

My rubber fuel lines in my 94 have regular screw type hose clamps on them ,not the push on fitting like Jman mentioned. Does this mean that they have already been changed?

 

The stock hoses have hose clamps. I think jman was speaking of the hoses at the fuel tank. Sometimes it's easier to cut the clamps off than it is to unscrew them. If you are replacing with higher quality than stock hoses the old clamps won't work anyway because good hose is thicker.