Well i changed my fuel filter today finally. Been a while since it was changed(i've owned it for 20k and i know its been atleast 30k since it was changed) anyways it felt like a whole new truck, has more bottom end and seems to run smoother. Wonder if i'll get better mileage?(i'm gettin 17-19 right now on winter fuel)

One question- is there a fuel bleeder for after i've changed the filter? I had to crank it 4 or 5 times for 5-10 seconds with the pedal floored to get it kick over.

 

you will get better milage, I went from 16mpg city, to 21 city with a fuel filter, oil and oil filter change. My fuel filter obviously needed to be changed. If u read a post I made a couple days ago about the fuel filter and oil change, i said somthin about it seeming like it had more power, but I thought I was imagining it, maybe I wasn't, lol.

 

If you are talking about the 97, there is no fuel bleeder AFAIK. The lift pump is not electric so you would have to pump the primer with it open if it had one. There is a test port on top of a banjo on top of the fuel filter and if it makes you feel better you can crack it and pump the primer until fuel comes out. I have always just pumped the primer and then cranked it. It takes a few seconds if you prime it right but nothing excessive.

 

That's what's nice about a fuel pressure gauge-
you don't have to guess about when it's time to change the filter.
I've seen a filter clog in 20 miles from bad fuel, on the other hand a friend drove his new truck with the stock filter 82k before it finally plugged up.
Determining the change interval by mileage alone is sort of worthless.
Just eliminating a couple unnecessary filter changes will pay for a gauge.

 

Thats why I'm really considering a fuel preasure gauge.

 

not really much to consider..... you can do it for $30 or less not like its a huge chunk of change

 

Whats the pressure on a 12v supposed to read?

 

17 - 22 psi at idle and 25 - 35 psi at 2500 rpm (no load).

 

infidel,
Where can someone pick up a fuel pressure gauge also where does it get it's reading from?

Justin

 

If you save your old overflow valve it can be used for connecting a guage into the fuel inlet banjo for the IP. What I have heard is that the threads are not exactly correct for a fuel guage line fitting but that it is close enough that it doesn't leak and will withstand anything the lift pump puts out. You will need a snubber valve to isolate the pulses some or the gauge will fluctuate with each pulse and self-destruct.

 

To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:

I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.

Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.

If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .

After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.

Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...s&keyword=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.

From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=