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Front crank seal

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Old 10-23-2008, 06:37 PM
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Front crank seal

Good day all, been reading ya'all for a while and learning. And I must say thanks to all! But now I have a question, how often do you have a front crank seal leak? Reason I ask is that I had the KDP fixed the last week of this past April and of course a new crank seal was put in and it has been dry till last week. Rolled under to start fixing the other leak (vac pump) and promptly rolled back out letting loose with some serious profanity. Doesn't seem to be a big job, but I want to do it right so if you have any tips I would greatly appreciate any. If the tips include tequila, come on over (Wooster, Oh.), I'm pourin'.
Old 10-23-2008, 08:44 PM
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No help from me because I have the same question as you. Got a leak at the crank seal and one at the front of the rear axle. Got some cold rainy days coming with the arrival of fall, time to get under the truck for some repairs.
Old 10-23-2008, 10:03 PM
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the hardest part....

You really need to take the timing case cover off. It has about a dozen bolts but you need to take the fan and hub off prior to that; w/o a fan hub wrench it can be a pita. Once the fan stuff is off it's pretty easy to pop the old seal out and press in a new one. Just make sure everything on the seal is DRY in addition to the crankshaft. Hope this helps, cd
Old 10-24-2008, 10:16 AM
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I just redid mine last week I used the felpro gasket set TCS46001 which comes with the seal $50 , I nicked the first seal putting in so I ordered another was told the seal alone was $50 so they got me another set. It's not that hard of a job to do you can remove 4 bolts that hold the fan to the engine and pull the fan and fan shroud out as one if you don't have the proper wrench to remove the fan (left handed thread) , you can also use a long drift to break the fan free from the hub. I have done it both ways now and each takes about the same amount of time. make sure everything is clean and install the seal dry as mentioned above.
Old 10-24-2008, 10:26 AM
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Just follow the instructions here for tabbing the KDP skipping the tab part
http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
You may want to just buy the tab kit from TST, it has everything you will need at a good price
http://www.tstproducts.com/dowelpinr...tfor94-98.aspx
Old 10-24-2008, 11:17 AM
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Getting the fan off can be hard, but since you did the job last year, this time around should not be too bad. 1-7/16" wrench will fit the nut, left hand threads. A punch will also work, placing it on the corner or the nut. When I had mine off, I took a 5/16" drill bit and with a drill press, put a dimple on the outside of each corner which holds the punch much better for the next time. Also reminds me of the thread direction. For the gasket, I used a silicone that has held fine. For the seal, make sure you get a guide for it. It makes installation easier and protects the seal during the installation process. If you mess it up, it will leak sooner or later, again. Use a anti-seize when putting the nut back on.
My guess is that you will spend more time cleaning the parts for installation than doing actual wrenching.
Tequila can be helpful, up to a point.
Old 10-24-2008, 10:39 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Not a complicated seal to replace (thanks to Cummins for designing a real engine) but I don't wanna do it every 6 months.
Old 10-25-2008, 10:15 AM
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Not sure if the TST instructions mention it but good practice is to drag your fingernail across the end of the shaft where the seal rides.
If you feel a snag it means the seal has worn a groove in the crank. You can replace seals till the end of days and they will still leak.
Do this every time you replace any seal.
Not to worry, Cummins sells a kit (Speedi-Sleeve) that will solve the problem for under $100.
In other applications you can sometimes install the seal deeper or shallower to avoid the groove.
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