about to do a brake job , any hints or tips. also when stopping the truck will sometimes hop and jump. what pads would you recommend?
thanks

 

Whatever you do don't get the high dollar lifetime warren-teed pads... They are hard as all get out and will eat rotors... Best bet is to get the cheapest foreign ones you can since they would be softer AND have the possibility of havin' asbestos in 'em

As far as tips go, get a big pair of channel locks to compress the caliper with before going back together with everything so you have plenty of pad clearance.

 

I use the cheapest Hawk pads from www.tirerack.com
Long lasting and a perfect match for our rotors.
A net search will get you many other vendors, in fact I think one of the DTR sponsored vendors sells them.

 

Hopping probably comes from the rotors being warped. Depending on front axle weight, the rotors should slip off and then you can either replace them or take them in and have them machined.

Thanks,
Andy

 

i agree with vzdude. I work on brakes for a living among other maintenance work. I would not get the cheapest, they tend to make a more noise. You need to put a micrometer to the rotor to see the minimum thickness. They need to be machined so as not to go below the minimum thickess. Is they go below that replace them. Most of the time the will have the mins on the back of the rotor. the brakes I replaced mine with were semi-metallic Bendix pads. Some ceramics are harder on the rotors, but they do have a few advantages. 1. Reduced brake dust, 2. they are quieter, 3. they last longer 4. they give greater stopping power. Besides being harder on the rotors they are more expensive. If you just slap some pads on the truck without turning the rotors you are likely to still have that hop.

 

Yes I forgot to mention anything about warped rotors... In most cases though with light duty applications such as our trucks new rotors are usually within $20 of having them machined. That and I personally would go with new rotors just because there would be less heat stress on the metal in that they are brand new.

Yes the new ceramics have better stopping power and less dust ect ect.... I just don't like replacing the rotors so often IMO.

 

Be sure to replace the caliper pins and bushings.
Also keep an eye on those pins.
They tend to need lubrication very often.
Especially in wet wintery conditions.

Your rear drums can cause the hoppin around as well as the warpage of front rotors.

Check out my readers gallery for more tips.
Also check out my short video on you tube.
It show how much drag is tollerable.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGHd5-j2TQk

PM me if you have any questions

SFB

 

I just bought new rotors and loaded calipers from NAPA when I did mine. I ended up putting some new bearings, races and seals in while I was at it. It took away almost all of my front end troubles, although I still need a steering shaft.

 

thanks so much for the tips ill make a list now

 

so whats a good rotor to get and how "fun" are they to change out

 

They aren't very "fun"...

You have to pull the hub/rotor assembly and then drive out all the lug studs from the back, replace the rotor and drive the lug studs back in again, making sure to seat thm all the way.

 

and whats a good rotor to run?