I have some leaky seals on my front axle. I went to the parts store, bought seals and was about to tackle the job. Then I was advised that it is very difficult and should be left to the professionals. My neighbor who is a professional said not so, and I should be able to do it myself.

Any comments? Advice? Tips? Help? ???

TIA

 

IT's a PITA job, but do-able. The dealer quoted me 4 hrs labor to do them both. The seals install from the inside of the diff. The passenger side goes in thru the CAD housing opening. No way to swing a hammer to tap it in. I made a puller type arrangement out of some all-thread and some steel plates. The driver's side requires you to remove the ring-gear carrier assembly. The worst part of it all is that you have to tap/pull on the thin lip side of the seal and they bend easily. There's some instructions here: http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm If you do decide to do this check your axles for wear. If they're grooved, either replace them or install the seals so that the lip rides on a good part of the axle. Those grooves will eat up a new seal in no time.

 

Boy I really enjoyed the tour on the axle seal install I did learn how to do this and save some time may do mine this weekend not as bad as I thought it would be..This SITE IS THE BEST HANDS DOWN...

 

One thing I forgot to mention is the hubs can be a real bear to get out. A little trick I learned here is once you get the axle nut and the four bolts out, turn the steering wheel, jam a socket between the U-joint and the diff, and then straighten the steering wheel. Works like a charm.

 

Hey, thanks for the link. That's just what I was looking for, but I still have a minor question. ???

I take it, to get the carrier out, all I have to do is get the driver's side axle off? This is the side that is leaking, so does this mean I don't have to dork with the passenger side, right?

Also, the input shaft seal is also leak. Anything I should know about this one? That link doesn't tackle that issue.

Thanks again!

 

You have to take both the passenger side and the intermediate axles out to get the carrier out. I haven't done the input shaft seal, but a service manual or maybe a Haynes might be of some help.

 

(You have to take both the passenger side and the intermediate axles out to get the carrier out.)

Uggh, I was afraid of that. :'(
I do have a Haynes and it is lousy with few details.

 

This is a cut-n-paste. Sketchy but.........

PINION FLANGE & OIL SEAL
Removal
1) Raise and support vehicle. Reference mark drive shaft to
pinion flange on differential for reassembly. Remove bolts and "U"
joint straps at pinion flange on differential. Disconnect drive shaft
from differential, and support it aside.
2) Using INCH-lb. torque wrench, measure amount of force
required to rotate pinion. This is pinion bearing preload. Record
pinion bearing preload for reassembly reference.
3) Remove pinion nut and washer from pinion. Scribe reference
mark on pinion flange and pinion for reassembly. Using Holder (C-3281)
and appropriate flange remover, remove pinion flange from pinion.
Remove oil seal from axle housing.
Installation
1) Ensure oil seal surface in axle housing is clean. Coat lip
of oil seal with gear lube. Using appropriate oil seal installer and
handle, install oil seal.
2) Install pinion flange on pinion with reference mark
aligned. Press pinion flange onto pinion. Install washer and pinion
nut. Tighten pinion nut while rotating pinion, ensuring bearings are
properly seated. Tighten nut until preload measured before disassembly
is achieved. DO NOT exceed maximum torque specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
3) To install remaining components, reverse removal procedure
using NEW "U" joint straps and bolts. Ensure all reference marks are
aligned. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Check lubricant level and add if necessary.

Torq Spec is 215-315 ft.-lbs. for the pinion nut, 14 ft.-lbs. for the U-joint U-bolts.

 

Thanks Berner!!!!! ;D

 

Just a note on those inner axle seals... You can stack two in the seat. One in front of the other. The secondary seal doesn't seal to the back but if you throw the seals in the freezer for 30 mins and use a little silicone, you'll get a good seal on the OD.

 

I've had several people bring in rigs with leaky front seals and have never had to replace even one.
The problem is an overfilled differential or plugged vent tube.
Spec is 3/4" below the bottom of the fill plug.
Filled to the bottom of the plug hole and they are guaranteed to leak.