My trans has not been shifting properly in the '96 since I purchased it. Before removing valve body and modifying for more pressure it wasn't so noticeble, but now you can feel it. When taking off in "D", it goes into second, but within 1/2 to 1 second goes into 3. It basically skips 2nd. When towing it is more obvious, but when not towing it is not quite so obvious. I thought it was doing this prior to removing valve body and increasing pressure, but it was hard to tell since it shifted so smoothly, but now with firmer shifts, I can feel it. If you shift trans manually, it will work fine. It goes in each gear and when you move the lever it will shift up properly. OD and TC work great in either auto or manual. I have gone back in the trans, removed valve body and removed each valve, cleaned each one well and then put valve back in with a coat of fresh trans fluid. I did this to rule out a sticking valve, but this did not fix. I have now ordered the solenoids for the governer. I have been told these can affect shifting. My question is (a little premature, but I want to be prepared) if this does not fix my problem, what is next step? While I've got the pan off is there anything else to check? I also adjusted the bands when doing the original valve body work. When shifting manually there is no binding or bogging or any symptons of band problems. I am running aft+4 fluid and since installing trans gauge I've not seen temps above 240*. The highest temp so far has been sitting at a stoplight for a while. I learned quickly to pop it into neutral if sitting for very long. When towing up 7* incline, for six miles, temps did not get above 220*. These temps are in the line coming straight off converter, so actual trans temps are a little cooler than fluid coming straight out of converter. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Update. I replaced both solenoids on governer with same shifting results. Trans takes off in first, at around 15 mph shifts again. If overdrive is locked out, TC lock ups at around 40-45mph. I can place shifter in 2nd, take off, shifts normally out of first into second, hold shifter until around 35-40, move to "D" and another normal shift into 3rd. Stop, leave shifter in "D", and once again shifts from 1st to 2nd and imediately into 3rd basically skipping 2nd. If overdrive is unlocked it will shift into OD around 45-50mph and then TC lockup about 5mph later. No slipping in any gear and no burnt fluid. Fluid level full in Neutral and hot. Hoping someone has some ideas what to do next. I've researched a lot, but can't find anything specific to my problem. Most issues deal with not shifting at all, erratic shifting, no OD or TC lockup or back and forth in gears. The bad shifts are not easily recognized except when towing and then you really notice the shift into 2nd and imediate shift into 3rd. Feels like a bump-bump.

 

Forgot to add that have checked for codes, but none are present. I've adjusted kick down cable also, but that just changes shifts that are working. Has no effect on skipped 2nd. Still hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

 

It is called "stacked shift" and a known problem with some trucks. It is not the transmission, it is the PCM.
Some reading material http://www.dunriteconverters.com/httpdocs/faqs.html

 

John, thanks for that link and info. Yesterday I played around with it for a while, pulling connectors and checking stuff. Had lap top sitting nearby for reference of all the web sites pointing to what to check with volt and ohm meter. Found nothing wrong, but drove truck later and now it doesn't skip 2nd. In the process I did unplug PCM and plug it back in. I'm wondering if maybe it was a bad connection? After that I adjusted kick down cable to delay shifts a little (I like a later shift) and it works much better under full throttle. I have noticed that mine will shift out of 1st without even touching the go pedal. I will look into those shift springs the link you gave talked about. If this doesn't fix then I will look at replacing PCM. Where is a good place to purchase?

 

Sorry, don't know the PCM source. May try a search as many have posted a reliable source.

PCMs sometimes get a wild electron. I have the stacked shift problem, but it doesn't bother me as I learned to use the manual shift and my lock-up switch when towing a load of hauling the truck camper.
I have a 98 Caravan and the PCM does get a bit wild. Every couple years, I have to disconnect the battery power and let it reset itself.

 

It's like driving a different truck. I just purchased it in June of this year. I noticed previously when taking off easy or hard it just did not feel right. Now I can take off and feel the shifts and truck accelerates so much faster. One thing is for certain, I've learned quite a bit about these transmissions and how they shift over the last 7 days. I bookmarked every website I found dealing with shift and operation of the 47RE trans. I also learned how easy it is to put a drain plug in pan for less than a $1.00. After removing pan, take a 16P nail and drive through bottom near rear of pan. Next while pan is laying on solid surface drive a tapered drift punch through hole until you can start a 1/8" pipe tap and then tap out hole just like you did your exhaust manifold. Take one of those real small grinders and lightly take off scragly metal inside of pan (careful not to grind into threads) and then clean pan inside and out real well and install 1/8" pipe plug in hole with thread sealant. The pan metal is plenty thick to tap, tapered punch rolls metal inside pan and pipe threads seal perfectly. Now I can save that red gold ATF4 fluid when I want to get inside of pan, but fluid does not need changing. Anyone who has installed pyro has tap and the tapered punch is cheaper than plug kits I've seen online. Makes changing filter a lot easier and cleaner.