lgp9999

So I noticed today that my front axle seals are leaking. How difficult are these to replace? Are they at the pumpkin end of the axles, or at the hub end?

frostytj

Should be an inner seal. You will have to pull the shafts and carrier to change them out. I believe it is Dana/Spicer part# 36487 and should be item 031 below.

This is just based on some quick lookups based on your sig. If you have or get your BOM then it will be easy to confirm here http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?cvsp~debill~

FSM should walk you through most of it, if not this link might help. http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista...ice_manual.pdf

threlly

These guys make an aftermarket outer seal. I considered trying this after being unsuccessful at getting mine to quit leaking after changing the OEM seals.

http://madmfg.com/index.php?main_pag...1a14575a905e00

steerjock

Does using the aftermarket outer seal replace the inner seal or used in conjunction???

ytodd

It is not a replacement. The outer seal is meant to keep water, dirt and grime from entering the axle tube, NOT keep the gear oil in.

vrj

I have two (2) of the Mad Mrg. axle seals on the way. My inner seal is leaking and when they are replaced, I'll have the aftermarket outer-seals installed.

Does anyone have an update on how good or bad the outer-seals are after being installed for a while?

Diesel Doc

on a 98 you have the worst of both worlds. The driver side is in the pumpkin so you will have to pull the carrier and the pass side is in the actuator housing. Have fun.

leprechaun

My axel was leaking on the driver's side and I had already purchased a seal and was ready to tear into it when I read Infidel's post about the oil level in the front pumpkin.He said if the level was over 3/4" below the plug the oil would leak past the seal until it got down to the correct level and that oil in the axel tube would leak slowly over a long period of time even after the correct level was reached.My truck was new to me so I checked and sure enough the previous owner had topped it off to the bottom of the plug.I lowered the level and my leak eventually stopped.Saved me a lot of work.

infidel

Listen to what leprechaun said.
I've had many come in with leaky front seals and not one needed replacing.
In fact I've had a couple of seals in my own glove box for at least ten years.

Main cause is overfilled, correct level is 3/4" below the fill plug
I'm guilty of overfilling a few till I learned. Not all leak when overfilled but most do. If allowed to leak down to the correct level, leak will stop but it might take a while and soak your brake pads in the process. Better to suck the excess oil out.

Other common cause is recent front end work where the rotor and hub has been removed and the axle end allowed to hang down. Seal gets distorted from this and allows oil to get by but after going back to the correct position the seal "heals".
Problem is oil got past the seal and is trapped in the tube and may take several hundred miles to all leak out.
You can speed the leak out process by parking on a side slope with the leaking wheel downhill.

To prevent this in the first place jack the side you are working on high so the oil flows to the other side. Also stuff rags under the U-joint so the axle end isn't allowed to hang down from it's normal position.

Seal replacement isn't fun, be patent for oil to quit leaking.
If you feel the seals really need replacing here are good instructions http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm

Sawyer1

Well make my day why don't you. Mine are both leaking and I was thinking I would do them myself some weekend afternoon but now i think not.

NMCTD

Check your oil level... If you still feel the need to replace the seals then plan on about 4-6 hours solid... IF your a decent wrench and have all the correct tools at hand.

As for tools the only thing special you need, is to either purchase or make a seal "puller" that can pull the seals in from from the end of the axle tubes like these http://www.quad4x4.com/Front%20Axle%...al%20Tools.htm Without a puller, its almost impossible to get the passenger side seal in straight and it will leak again. Other than that you need a big enough socket to remove and replace the axle nut 1-11/16 socket is the size IIRC and it needs to be torqued to 245 lb ft

good luck....Josh

getrdun

Yeah bit of a job on the 98, had mine done also. I would also look in to getting some stainless sleaves for the axels while you have it apart as mine were a little pitted and didn't want to take a chance with any more leaking.

vrj

I have two (2) after-market OUTER axle seals purchased from Mad Mfg. for my Dana 60. I'll have the aftermarket outer-seals installed when I go into the diff. to replace the inner seals. Does anyone have an update on how good or bad the after-market outer-seals from Mad Mfg. are?

Also, I just put a Mag-Hytec cover on the front and filled it partially with Lucas Hub oil (made to stop diff. leaks) as well as the Lucas 75w/140 diff. oil. After a few days the leak stopped.

It is very, very easy to fill the diff. with oil to the correct level with the Mag-Hytec cover. It also takes approx. 5min. to check the oil level in the diff. No more guess work.

I guess I'll hold off changing my diff. seals.

http://madmfg.com/drivetrain-1/dana-...1a14575a905e00

high bid

For those of you who paid to have this done was it reasonable to take the truck to a axle or drive shaft shop? And what was the cost for one or both sides? Anying specific to watch for? My pass side is leaking and I haven't touched or added any fluid so my guess is that the seal is bad. Any input is appreciated!

SIXSLUG

Shouldn't this be in the Engine/drivetrain section???