I thought that the timing cases cracked after the pin dropped out because the pin got caught between a gear adn the case, and cracked the case...

??

 

Bill could you please quote for me and the other readers where I suggested one method over another. I merely stated what I did, nothing more. I agreed the jig method is good and well priced same for the other methods discussed here. I never said anything deragatory about anybody either. The only diservice I have seen has been the numerous incorrect assumptions, and "I bet..." statements you have made about myself, my workmanship, and procedures. Every assumption you made has been dead wrong. This has digressed into a bodily fluid discharge contest, of which I will not contribute.

 

gentlemen, please........................?

 

im torn between the jig and the kit.

 

What I tell people is tab the pin if you need to pull the timing case cover because of a seal or gasket leak, otherwise use the jig.
Another advantage of the jig is that it can be used over and over. If you know other folks with 12 valves the jig price can be divided up and come out very cheap.

 

I guess I'll ask then,does anyone have a jig they want to pass on???If not I may get one and start a line if anyone's interested??Why take the front cover off if you have no leaks??

 

jig method has it's advantages and drawbacks. just like taking timing cover off has it's plus and minus.

for me the time/cost difference between jig and tabbing KDP is the same for all practical purposes.

personally I'd prefer to take timing cover off so I can SEE what's happening. largest block of time doing this job is taking off fan clutch/fan assembly. some take fan shroud/radiator hose off.

solution is to separate fan from fan clutch before attempting to remove. once fan is separated, pieces drop right through without taking shroud and/or radiator hose.

from that point on... protect you radiator with plastic foam board.
you have plenty of room to take bolts out of timing cover. then find dowel pin, drive deep into hole. take flat chisel dimple edges or install cummins tab ($3) and reassemble. use red locktite on internal bolts.

if timing cover came off like mine without damaging gsk. clean off, then apply a thin layer of your favorite sealant. (I like air craft sealant)

inspect main shaft for grooves. if you have grooves and old seal came off without damage. IMHO risk of leaking is greater by installing a new seal. I loaded up seal groove with white lithium grease and carefully re-assemble.

assuming your truck has 80k+ miles and has grooves, the proper fix is to install an oversize seal kit with sleeve.

re-assembled mine with old gsk and old seal. not a drop leaking so far... total cost $3

be sure and chase down a brass feeler gauge to set crank sensor to .050in.

hardest part of job is to break loose fan hub. I came up with a easy to make tool to take hold hub while you break loose with 36mm wrench. have not seen this tool anywhere. could be a new invention

 

If I would have done the jig technique, I would have hit the Pin !!!!! My pin was out 3/16 of and inch and the jig would have been just another hole to fill.

The cover is easy to remove and getting a fresh front seal isn't such a bad thing. I don't know why everyone is so against pulling about 12 bolts to check?? Its not hard work, the damper on the engine isn't even a press fit.

I made a weekend project out of it. Seal, KDP and Timing.

 

My feeling on all things automotive is why fix something that isn't broken. Containing the pin is more like insurance rather than fixing something, the easiest method that works is fine by me.

BTW, with the jig from Harold the hole is at an angle so that if you hit the pin it can be driven back in with a drift. No need to pull the front cover.
I've used the jig on at least 75 trucks and have only hit the pin twice. One I was able to pound back in, the other was so far out the cover had to come off.

 

ever see what happens when a timing case bolt backs out and falls into the timing gears? it ain't pretty... pull the cover, tab the pin, and locktite and retorque the timing case bolts

 

Infidel,

Thats fine. The law of averages are in your favour.. Also on that average are the people that do NOTHING.. Probability wins. The Cummins PowerBoosters news letter I had years ago just balked the whole issue and said "Don't worry about it, it has only happened on a hand full of trucks".

For me, the internal inspection gives me piece of mind. I also pull my diff pans to change diff oil, not just suck it out with a fluid pump. I like to see the running gear is in good shape.

For my job I use electronic, non-intrusive instruments to assess engine health. But there are still physical inspections required that you just can't skirt around. You could play the averages and say a main bearing failure has 0.02% probability, however it only costs $XXXX to inspect. What is insurance worth to you?

In the end its what the owner is comfortable with.

 

I've heard it said that if you are only addressing the dowel pin issue, you are basically just creating a false sense of security for yourself as any one of those three internal timing case bolts can do just as much damage if they loosen up and back out which they have been known to do. The dowel pin is only half of the problem.

I consider it well worth the cost of a tab, crank seal and timing cover gasket along with a few hours of easy wrench turning in my driveway to have addressed the issue completely.