The local parts stores, Advance Auto & Oreilly's, have a timing cover gasket set that looks like what I need including gear case cover gasket and crankshaft seal kit. Part number is Felpro TCS45902. But the application is listed as 1988-1996. Is this right? Did something change after 1996? Felpro doesn't seem to have a part number for after 1996. I cannot be the first to come across this so hopefully someone can enlighten me.

I can get the seal kit alone for around $30 locally but the above gasket set includes gaskets for timing case, timing cover, and crank seal for around $33. That's a little more for your money if you ask me. But will it fit all 12-valvers?

Trying to do KDP this weekend, any help appreciated...

 

Get the seal from cummins and use the grey RTV for the front cover.

I was always against RTV and considered it a hack product but I have to tell you mine was done over 3 years ago and 50,000 miles with out a drip.

Grind a fender washer for the tab.

use these directions, they are great.

http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf

 

All the 12V should be the same. I bet it is just a catalog error. I used that set for mine and it sealed well from what I can tell(only a couple thousand miles so far). I used red RTV all the way around on the cover housing and cover.

 

Thanks for the tips. I agree that RTV is as good a gasket as any other. I also read somewhere recently, and it might have been from Felpro, that nothing should be applied to gaskets unless there is a specific application that requires something. A high percentage of gasket failures were attributed to the stuff that we put on the gaskets.

I think I'll buy the complete gasket set and also the crank seal set. Then I can choose which to use and return the other. Then I'll be able to verify if the timing cover gasket does indeed fit my '98 and I can post the findings for future reference...

Hopefully I will find my dowel pin where dowel pins should be and not somewhere else...

 

I found mine holding on by about 1/8", so I was glad I took the time for the tear down.....

 

I used the Fel pro gasket set installed it dry no leaks been on there for 20,000 kms first thing I did when I bought the truck. My past experience with silicone for gaskets is if they make a stamped gasket use it there is nothing worse than redoing a job.

 

I just tore my 92 down today ,the backing plate is much thicker than it shows in the pix ,,and the dowel pin is still clear in ,,,,couldnt i just peen the outer part of the hole to keep it from walking out ??? The plate I made to spec is not going to work ,because there is a step about a quarter of an inch thick sticking out and doesnt have the shape of the plate ,, just thought I would take a small center punch and lightly peen around the hole to restrict it ....has anyone else ran into this ,,,this is on a 92 ...

 

ROOK440, I am going to tear mine down in a few minutes after the engine cools. I do not speak from experience but I see nothing wrong with peening, or staking, the dowel pin hole. It is a normal machinist practice and I have seen reference to it regarding the KDP. That is how I plan to do mine.

To answer my own question at the start of this thread, and to add info to the database, I did find the correct Felpro gasket set.

TCS46001 is listed as 1994-1998.
TCS45902 is listed as 1988-1996.

There is some overlap in the years which is odd. I did not get a chance to compare them but it looks like the same stuff to me.

I got the TCS46001 and it has both of the timing case gaskets and a crank seal kit for $37.99

 

here is a pic of the KDP tab I made, I also peened it and used the tab just to be safe. Also check all your case bolts, I have found several about to fall out.

 

Nice picture.

I just stopped for lunch and I'm down to the vibration damper. I have an auto tranny. Any tips on removing the bolts? I don't have room to get a impact gun in there and of course the engine is turning...

 

some times you can hold the alternator pulley nut.

 

I wedged a long pry bar against a block of wood on the floor and up against the big notch in the damper. Worked like a charm.

I'm about at the halfway point and done for the day. GOOD NEWS the dowel hasn't moved ... I couldn't stake it to my satisfaction so I made a tab.

Now I just have to clean all the sludge off of everything on the front of the engine and timing cover. I hate a grimy engine. Should be done tomorrow.

Miles The Dog can't handle the down time. He doesn't understand why he can't go for a ride

 

Yes, Gives you a good chance to do some cleaning and also get real familar with the front of your engine.

 

to loosen the bolts I put a long breaker bar on the balancer bolts and hit the end of it with a rubber mallet in the loosen direction (righty tighty lefty loosey),it really went pretty well and they all broke loose after a few (8 or so wacks ) the crank will still turn when you hit it ,but it will break them loose ......