Well i was at work and i was talking to people and was asking for a valvespring compressor and they pointed out some things i havent thought about. First is where can i get a compact valve spring compressor right now the only one i have access to is the one that looks like a giant c with a vice grip handle. And the only way this one works is with the head removed. And do i have to remove my head to replace my valves? They also pointed out that if i didnt remove my head and i accidentally dropped a valve it could go the whole way down into my cylinder, is this true? Also after i find TDC for number 1 how do i find TDC for the rest of the cylinders? The book i have is not very clear. Need help asap because hope to put on mods this friday.

Rick

 

are you just replacing the springs? or valves and springs?

 

I am replacing the valve springs ,keepers, and retainers all for the 4k kit.

 

You can get the spring compressor at Schucks or a decent parts store.


Turning your motor over from the alternator.... (backwards) Wait for the intake rocker to come up. (when it compresses and opens the valve... turn until it comes to the top and is loose)

Your piston is now at the top and you wont have to worry about dropping the valve.


To make sure... you can get a coat hanger and pull you injectors. Stick the hanger in there and feel when it comes up.


FWIW
Mark

 

BTW. IF you get the retainers off without the piston to help hold the valve (I dunno how honestly.. they are tight and a PIA to get off WITH the piston helping) Your valve can fall into the cylinder.

 

do a search on my screen name, i did a write up a while back. but i did not start the post.

 

Well if ound a couple of posta and went out and bought the searc valve spring compressor and i will modify it when i do the springs. But in the write up they never said anything about the arms being to short? So if anybody knows the valve spring compressor i am talking about from what it looks like i need to cut the ends of the arms and add about another inch to an inch and a half. It is the one that has the 2 pronged cup on the threaded piecs to hold the keeper and the arms go down along it and pull the valve up aginst the prongs. Am i on the right track? Questions?


Rick

 

i have done 10 different trucks with the short compressor with the star wheel on top and never had to modify anthing. it works fine.

 

here is my write up from the other post

i use the one with the star wheel on top, i forget what brand it is. but you need to wear a glove, that thing will have your hands raw by #6. it is short enought to get under the cowl. i open it up all the way, clip it on the spring and then thread it down as far as i can to compress the spring as much as possible[before i compress it with the star wheel]. then i place a small refridgerator magnet on top to catch the retainers when i hit it with a mallet to free the keepers. in the back i just use a pry bar to pop the retainers free. and the best way i have found to get the piston just right is to compress the spring, and press the valve down into the cylinder, then spin the motor over [by hand]till you see the piston push the valve up to tdc for that cylinder. way better than counting revs. ok there is all my super secret spring change info. whoops almost forgot, when you put in the new springs, thread them into the valve spring compressor to get them compressed as possible, other wise they are a p.i.t.a. to get compressed enough to get the keepers in.