Hey guys. I have a couple questions I hope I wont get yelled at if theyve been posted before. I looked at the tech forums for the 1st gen ram items and couldn't find nything pertaining to a gas to diesel swap. OK I'll list off wht I have and what i want to do.

The truck:
1984 Dodge Ramcharger 4x4. 318/727/np205 dana 44 front axle with the input from the driveshaft going into the passenger side and a 9 1/4 rear. I'll have to get both axles rebuilt so I'm thinking of changing gears to something like 4.10s?

What I want to do is by a used(or if cost effective B series 12V Cummins with a NV4500 5 speed with the adapter bracket to use my np205. I'm also going to need a different fuel tank. Would a Fuel cell from summit be good enough to use in a diesel application?

What I need to know is will this work? and what do I needfor electronics? I know I need an engine controller and likely one f those turbo timer type deals etc. I'm new to diesels but I understand the basics of how an engine works so I can do all the mechanical I just need to now what the electronics I eed are. Thanks guys.

 

why would one need a diff. fuel tank? diferentials will probably be ok for street. they will be weak for off roading. i did it in a 82 dodge pick-up it is basically a matter of swapping parts. easiest engine swap i have ever done. u will have to do something about the core support to get room for the fan. 9.25 has worked great for over 5 years of street strip.

 

Will the frame on the '84 hold up with the weight of the CTD??

 

mine has but i dont tow with the 82. i was told by people that know? that it would not hold up. been watching closely when changing oil havent seen any cracks yet.

 

I need a new fuel tank anyways mine has a hole in it.

The Frame on the 84 is the same as the later 88-93 dodge diesels maybe a bit braced.

 

I would be weary of the dana 44 and the weight of the cummins, this could lead to a smiling front axle.

 

Well in that case, yes a new tank is necessary.
The '84 frame should be the same as the 89 to early 91 3/4 ton diesels. I know the 87 W150 I had once had the same size frame as the early diesels. The later 91.5 to 93 diesels had a taller frame in them.

 

What kind of front end is under most 1st gen diesels? I'm looking at buying a wrecked 93 3/4 ton for parts so I may not have much trouble.

 

I think I'll just strengthen up the axles. i'll get support braces made up to strengthen them for now at least. that and i'll probably upgrade to some lockers and stronger axles.

I keep hearing contradicting things about the cummins 12V. One site says it has no ecu or engine electronics and another says it does. What is it? I'd be so much easier with no ecu to wire can anyone help me out with an explaination of the electronics?

 

12 valve will work nicely with out electronics 24 valve is another story.

 

Dana 60 front end, king pins instead of ball joints. Dana 70 rear. That would be the ideal donor truck, all the knick knack parts would be right there for you.

 

Yes, as for the D44, I don't think it's necessarily the strength of the shafts that can be stuffed in it, but the strength of tubes and knuckles. The stock D60 knuckles and steering parts wear out pretty fast on these trucks. I imagine a D44 will wear out a lot faster. These engines are freakin' heavy. Like twice what a small block gasser weighs.

As for the ECU, I think that they are mostly for controlling the rest of the truck and gauges and such. My buddy and I tore apart a bus with a 12v Cummins in it last year and drove the bare frame around with nothing but a wire to the shutoff solenoid. If you have dumb gauges,(no comouter connected) like most any old truck you don't need a computer at all.

You don't need any turbo controller either. The waste gate on these is purely mechanical.

Basically, getting a 12v to run is simpler than a Small Block Shevy.

Take Care,
Phill

 

Would I benefit from running an computer? like better fuel mileage. Thats all this swap is about. Getting 25-30 highway miles and 20-25 city easily

Also would anyone have any other suggestions for me about using my planned motor swap in a -40 degrees celcius environment? I know dual block heaters, and a battery blanket, etc.