Is there someway to make the torque converter lock up a little more firm? Seems as though I remember something about dropping the valvebody and removing a check valve or ball or something. Is this true and what exactly gets removed?

 

Adding a shift kit will increase your pressures which will help your tc lock-up.However the factory tc's are not very good and will slip with the slightest bit of bombing.Mine started to slip about a month after i put in my #8 plate, i added a shift kit and it did help a bit. I lived with it for a year and did the rebuildthis spring with a triple loc tc.

 

Where did you get your shift kit and what brand did you get? Thanks

 

here's a good place to start for testing information.

http://www.atsdiesel.com/ATSWebsite/...nsmissions.asp

click on your particular model for install instructions, which includes trouble shooting info to get a stock tranny working.

before ATS lockup modules can work, stock tranny has to work properly. so ATS is modivated to get your stock tranny working proper first.

 

I see info on a valvebody "kit" and the instructions for it show you putting all the pieces in it but I only see complete valvebodies. Am I missing something?

 

try this link for ATS commander which requires tranny to be working.
https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505...ge%2094-98.pdf

 

IMO i think the ATS commander, or any lockup controller is a waste of $$$. For what 99% of people use their trucks for, i just think you cant beat a lockup switch. Lock it up whenever you want and its guaranteed to stay locked. Lockup switch and wire = $15 max, Transcommander = $425

 

note: in no way was I endorsing the commander. don't have one. what I was pointing out was, ATS is motivated to get your stock tranny running right or their commander will not work correctly.

so contained within commander install instructions is basic testing information. specific to CTD commander is made for.

 

I have no idea what kit went into mine, as i took it to my tranny guy and he set it for hauling loads,nice quick clean shifts none of that sliding into the next gear.

 

before you spend any major $$$ change fluids to ATF 4+ , but partially drop you valve body when you do. this allows aprox. 9 quarts to drop out. you want to get rid of as much old fluid as possible.

simply changing my fluids has made a world of difference in how my tranny performs. within commander install instruction are basic tests you can run, before spending big $$$.

 

here you go hope u can see this and don't have to log in

http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=68

 

Well im looking at the Trans Go SK TFOD Diesel shift kit. It sounds like it'll do what I need it to do. The tranny now has 175K on it and its never been touched. It still shifts like the day I bought it with 36K on it so I think the tranny is fine. I just think eliminating as much slippage as possible with that kind of mileage would be benifical to it. The converter was always loose feeling and had the slippage into lock up feeling so i'd like to get that to lock up a little quicker as well as shift a little harder. I've always fought drainback issues with it once the air temps got below about 50 degrees so i'd like to resolve that also.

 

the thing that worries me with increasing pressures in an older tranny is the quality and age of seals...they may simply not take it and you will have internal leaks within a few months..not saying it will happen but its a possibility...living up in the north here i have about 1 seal or more of some sort go out on me every year just due to age..so i can't imagibne what the seals in the original tranny are going through

 

Good point, but is the shift kit actually increasing the pressure or does it shim the accumlators so they dont have to slowly fill up with fluid to engage the bands?

 

Newbe here... I have a 96 2500 cummins 4x4 and I was told the only thing that is controlled by a computer is the tranny. If this is true what can you do with the computer to help shift points and or stiffness. Chip???