Complete 5sp Conv Notes!!
02-05-2006, 01:45 AM
#31
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glad to help anyone that can prosper from my hard way lessons....
Yeah that master ordeal is a PITA. Took me 4 hours of measuring, cutting, fitting, and welding the wrong version actuator rod. It was the only thing standing in my way from driving home though.....and I was buying ANOTHER master cylinder just to get the right rod. When it goes bad if ever, I will change styles.
Good choice with going with the later Tcase shifter style....another point of friction that took alot of time to straighten out....and I'm still not as happy with the fit and function as if I had the 98+ shifter. When I get some extra time with nothing to spend money on, I will seal up the floor (which will get rid of some noise too) and install the later shifter to go better with my later console and simplify the whole assembly.
Keep us posted...........
Chris
Yeah that master ordeal is a PITA. Took me 4 hours of measuring, cutting, fitting, and welding the wrong version actuator rod. It was the only thing standing in my way from driving home though.....and I was buying ANOTHER master cylinder just to get the right rod. When it goes bad if ever, I will change styles.
Good choice with going with the later Tcase shifter style....another point of friction that took alot of time to straighten out....and I'm still not as happy with the fit and function as if I had the 98+ shifter. When I get some extra time with nothing to spend money on, I will seal up the floor (which will get rid of some noise too) and install the later shifter to go better with my later console and simplify the whole assembly.
Keep us posted...........
Chris
02-06-2006, 12:26 AM
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Well, I was able to drive it on the trailer in 4 low. No clutch master and no rear drive shaft. The coversion turned out very good although it is not complete. I was shorted the bracket that bolts to the transmission and is the support for that section of exhaust and the actual soft mount. I still need to install the Bosch relay. It took me a couple of hours but the fabrication on the floorboard turned out nice. I will post my experience when completed, rather than continue to do one and two liners. I have pictures of the floorboard before and after the work.
02-13-2006, 02:30 AM
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Ok! Project finished. Well almost. My cruise control will not engage. The LED does light but no go. I have checked the schematics and none of the electrical circuits I dealt with overlap the speed control. It worked fine before the conversion. The brake switch is good and the relay is wired correctly.
Any ideas before I dive into the system for a diagnosis?
When completed, I also had my trans temp and OD lights on constantly. I removed the fuse and relay for the transmission but no luck. I disconnected the OD switch and removed the temp light bulb. When I removed the bulb, the Wait to Start bulb quit working.
Chris, I would like to post the notes from my conversion on this thread if you wouldn't mind.
Don
Any ideas before I dive into the system for a diagnosis?
When completed, I also had my trans temp and OD lights on constantly. I removed the fuse and relay for the transmission but no luck. I disconnected the OD switch and removed the temp light bulb. When I removed the bulb, the Wait to Start bulb quit working.
Chris, I would like to post the notes from my conversion on this thread if you wouldn't mind.
Don
02-13-2006, 02:50 PM
#34
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when you said the relay was wired correctly, does that mean the add-on that I gave a diagram for? All that needs to happen is for the PCM to see a no nuetral indication. The nuetral circuit for the clutch interlock is a different circuit than what we're dealing with. If you have installed the nuetral relay as described in the following diagram below and it doesn't work, we'll straighten it out. I believe the nuetral circuit should be the same for an RE as it is for an RH....the little 3 pin connector on the side of the trans?
The trans light can be eliminated with the placement of a 1K ohm resistor in the temp sensor plug that no longer plugs into anything. The OD light I'm not sure about because I don't know the electronics in an RE/PCM. Someone will chime in probably.
And no, add some info for the RE version of this swap.....the floor is yours.
Chris
The trans light can be eliminated with the placement of a 1K ohm resistor in the temp sensor plug that no longer plugs into anything. The OD light I'm not sure about because I don't know the electronics in an RE/PCM. Someone will chime in probably.
And no, add some info for the RE version of this swap.....the floor is yours.
Chris
02-13-2006, 08:22 PM
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Thanks Chris. I followed your schematic when I wired in the relay. 30 & 86 to a good ground. 85 to the dark blue/yellow wire at the clutch switch. 87 to the black/white wire from the three wire connector.
The only thing I see that may be different is where I tapped the blk/wht wire. I picked it up right at the three wire connector after I cut it off. The blk/wht wire is grounded when I depress the clutch.
My reverse lights are also not working. That has me wondering since all three wires are right there. I do have the blk/wht to the relay.
The only thing I see that may be different is where I tapped the blk/wht wire. I picked it up right at the three wire connector after I cut it off. The blk/wht wire is grounded when I depress the clutch.
My reverse lights are also not working. That has me wondering since all three wires are right there. I do have the blk/wht to the relay.
02-13-2006, 10:59 PM
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the clutch switch is a positive circuit that powers up one side of the start relay coil (85). (see diagram) The factory auto nuetral sw is a ground circuit that grounds the other side of the start relay coil (86)....two separate circuits. So the wht/black wire at the trans plug does not hook to either of the other two wires, it grounds inside the trans. The other two wires in that plug are one=positive power, and the other=back-up light. The positive is just a feed for the b/u lights when the trans is in reverse, and each wire can be hooked up right to the manual reverse sw...one to each terminal The nuetral position sw shouldn't be tangled up with the reverse light circuit at all.....unless something changed between my year and yours that is.
04-25-2006, 02:41 PM
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I located a donor truck for my conversion. All my parts came from a 1998 and were installed in a 1996. I am still planning on posting my installation notes here soon. I will say at this time, I am enjoying this conversion.
I used the Transmission, T/case (optional), pedal assembly, possible drive shaft modifications, T/case shift assembly, a possible $300 clutch master assembly if your donor is of a different year, say 1998 vs. 1996 I have a good 1998 clutch master and slave left over, clutch and flywheel assembly. I used the 98 trans. crossmember and floor console. Now I have more places to hold and spill beverages.
I used the Transmission, T/case (optional), pedal assembly, possible drive shaft modifications, T/case shift assembly, a possible $300 clutch master assembly if your donor is of a different year, say 1998 vs. 1996 I have a good 1998 clutch master and slave left over, clutch and flywheel assembly. I used the 98 trans. crossmember and floor console. Now I have more places to hold and spill beverages.
04-25-2006, 03:29 PM
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yeah, the drink holder are good in theory, but have found them useless because they are not deep enough for today's average coffee or soda....unless it's a can I suppose.
Chris
Chris
04-26-2006, 08:04 AM
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Mines kinda modified too...I had to change out the center console for a 98+ one...the smootie holes are to the right, with a cutout for the shifter. With my sub box, bent shifter, and smoothie, everything wouldn't work. With the new smoothie, PERFECT!! 
I need to get pics of my "redneck" short shifter
Chris
I need to get pics of my "redneck" short shifter
Chris
