Ram of Steel

I was hurt badly when I priced a rblt. 5600. When the $3500 landed on me, it knocked the wind out of me and nearly cracked some ribs.

With all kidding aside, a 5600 is out of the question for know but I did find a 1998 Cummins 4x4 with a NV4500. I was quoted $2000 for the trans, T/case, pedal assembly,clutch and flywheel, hydraulics, console, carpet,drive shafts and any other periferals that I may need to make it a complete conversion.

I feel this is a very good price for all of this. What do you all think?

1320

I was almost injured by the 5600 price too. I have my 4500 sitting on the shop floor right now, waiting for the 5600 to get here. After looking a bit I found a big shaft 5600 for 2200 + 367 for shipping.

I already had the SB conversion clutch so I sent my disc back to Peter to change the hub.
May be you guys can correct me, but I think I read that I can use my 98 cross member by turning it around moving it back and down? Or I can fab one pretty easy with stuff in my shop as I work with steel daily. I need to lenghten the transfer case linkage, looks easy enough? And do the driveshafts shorter and longer?

The 98 nv4500 bd shifter is workable in the 5600 right? Ill just need a new **** to get the shift pattern displayed correctly.


SAN JOSE! Man I was on my way to san jose when my 4500 broke. I just bought a car in san jose and need to go get it.....

got...DIESEL?

no the BD shifter is not interchangeable. When I ordered mine they sent the 5600 version in error and it IS different. The 5600 shifter has the ball end as part of the stub, while the 4500 uses a receiver where the ball end fits into via an o ring fit and pin attachment. The ball end on a 98+ 4500 also has flats ground onto it, where the 5600 doesn't.

As far as the crossmember, not sure about reversing it, but I would think dropping it would be problematic. Aren't the 98+ crossmembers tapered at the mount flanges like the earlier 2nd gens are? If so, I would think this would be a tough chore to fight that wedge.

Ram of Steel

Ok. I am trying to complete my homework assignment on my 4500 conversion before I begin the actual work. I think I will be going with the stock 12" flywheel and a Centerforce clutch assembly. it is rated for 800 Ft lbs of torque.

My question today is, I thought I remember reading an article about a 1-3/8" input shaft in a NV4500? If not, can it be easily upgraded at an affordable price? I was quoted $1400 to upgrade it. Seems a little outrageous. I am fully capable of doing the work myself I just need the correct information. My donor truck is a 98 2500 Cummins 24V 4x4.

Is it necessary to upgrade the input? I am running a #5 plate and 15.5 degrees of pump timing.

I'm going on and on. Any information I can get my greasy little hands on would be deeply appreciated.

Thanks, Don

got...DIESEL?

800 lb/ft of torque is fairly easily attainable in a CTD. Don't limit yourself by buying a clutch you will outgrow in short order. Buy ahead of yourself and allow some room for growth.

As for the input, yes an 1 3/8 is available, and no it's not hard to do yourself to save some labor. Simply pull the "snout" off the front of the trans and the input falls out in your hands. Do you NEED one?? Don't know. Depends on your truck usage, but at your power level and from the sounds of where you are going, I would invest the money in a higher horse clutch. If the time comes where you need the shaft, it's not hard to replace, nor time consuming. It IS expensive though fro not really needing it. You can put a ton of power through the 1 1/4 shaft. If, however, you're gonna be dropping the clutch at the track and pulling sleds, the larger shaft may be in order, as well as made from better steel, but then again, your clutch pick will be a weak link too.......decision decisions. The CTD bombing run is full of quaint little choices aint it It just soooo addictive though.....my wife curses my good fortune of finding stellar deal on one!!

storx

i myself have been trying to find the info on swapping in a 5600 because i found a 6 speed at a junk yard for under a grand. wish it was still in the truck... its been sitting int he back of there show for osme time now.. and they were actually thinking about selling it to a core buyer because noone has called in looking to buy it.

Ram of Steel

If you decide not to buy the six speed, I would be happy to save it from the loneliness of the transmission pile. I have only found five speeds. I have purchased a five speed conversion from a donor truck but after one month of waiting, it is still in the donor truck. I can't complain too much since it is in a friends dismantling yard.

Oh Yeah, did I say I would buy the six speed? )

Thanks, Don

Ram of Steel

I need an opinion or advice. I am sitting in the office. Taking a break from my NV4500 conversion. My truck is a 1996 and my donor truck was a 1998. Both trucks are CTD 4x4. My first two problems (may not be problems) showed up right away. My T/case says 241 DHD and the donor case says DLD Is the donor a light duty?? If so, why was it installed in CTD? The first thing that popped up was that my T/case has a spped sensor in it and the 1998 does not

I have not removed the tailshaft as of yet to see if the speedo gear will attach to the later output.

HELP!

Ram of Steel

Well, I answered my own questions The donor T/case is a light duty. FYI the website's I checked, state that the Heavy Duty was an option. The difference between the two are 20 pounds, the PTO gear is larger in the HD and 8800 vs. 11,000 GVW. Interior parts are not interchangable.
The tail shafts will interchange. So now my VSS is installed in the new T/case.

Now back to the show. I'll be here for awhile tonight

got...DIESEL?

the DLD and DHD are both 241 HD (heavy duty). There isn't a CTD or V10 out there that doesn't have the HD tcase in it. You guessed it though, the DHD has PTO provision and therfor has a little heavier build. Don't let a DLD scare you though, they can take a thrashin. I think before I upgraded to a DHD though, I would entertain a 271....if you're going bigger, why not make it worth it?

Ram of Steel

Thanks Chris.

What uses the 271? The 241 DHD and DLD are different lengths. My concern is, I'm doing this conversion to be able to tow my 18,000 # 5'er. Does the DLD mean light duty?

got...DIESEL?

no, it is still an HD....there's just two models within that arena...DLD, DHD. Don't worry about towing the 5'er with it...you'll be fine.

Ram of Steel

I'm not trying to beat this issue with a stick but I am having issues with the numbers that New Process is giving for the two. The DLD states 8,800 GVW and the DHD is 11,000

I have the DHD from my automatic sitting here. Do you have an approximate estimate of what the new 29 spline input gear runs? Everyone that would possibly have it around here is closed today.

Your opinions and advice are deeply appreciated.

got...DIESEL?

the head gear cost me $225, and there are two styles of brgs for that gear...a ide and a narrow. Both will fit the case, but the gear dictates which one to use. Brg is about $20.

Though the DHD apparently has a higher GVW, the DLD is still considered a 241HD. If you have he DHD, use it....I would. BTW, to change the head gear, the whole t-case needs to be undressed. It won't come out the front, only from the back, and it's the first part to go in.....

The teardown is easy though and can be done in a few hour's time.

Ram of Steel

I installed the DLD.
I was under my buddies H.O. six speed this morning fabbbing up a template for the shifter and transfer case holes. While under the truck, I found another DLD

Right now, I am fabbing up a cover plate to cover the large hole left over from the 1996 T/case shifter.
I should have listened to you with regard to the clutch master as well. I had a hard time swallowing the $330 price tag from the dealer. I purchased a Raybestos master thinking I could modify the 1998 hydraulics by using parts such as the shorter rod and the large grommet that seals the firewall from the 1996. Wrong! They changed them just enough to take care of that idea. So down to the dealer I go.

I quickly figured out all the wiring re-route from your original posting on this subject.

Once again, thanks for your time.