hey guys..


some suggestions please...i'm open to ideas.

I don't want to spend a small fortune, but i want something reliable, and something that will allow me to grow into it a bit, perhaps.

I'm not afraid of spending some $$ on an upgrade if it will save me time, $$, and aggrevation in the long run.

specs: 96 12v 5 speed, SLT train (long bed, ext cab) within the next few weeks (not currently on the road...waiting for the beloved clutch..) the truck will have a BHAF, stacks, #100 plate, and maybe some 3k Gov springs...and of course, gauges...

sometime soon (next yr or so...) i'm wanting to go with bigger injectors, 4kGSK, and twins...


thanks guys..

your opinions are valued.

J

 

southbend dual disk with a 1 3/8ths upgrade mainshaft. do it once and get it over with. or you can pull the tranny out 4 times like i did.

 

What he said..

of if your not so sure u can get the southbend dual, go with the con OFE, rated to 550 horses and 1100 tq.....

Rick

 

where is the cheapest place to pick one up?

 

I highly agree with this. Spend alittle more money and get it over with.

I think he ment the con FE, the OFE isn't rated for as much power from what i understand (or i bought the wrong clutch ]

Right now I have a con FE and I wish that I would have gotten the dual disks from south bend w/ the 1 3/8" input shaft upgrade. But at the time I didn't have the dough to do it right the first time and now I'm going to eventually have to pull the tranny and do it all over again. Which isn't a fun experience

 

Hmmm...

the wheels in my head are turning..... I think i need to restrategize... anyhoos peter told me in an email that the CON oFE is the one rated to 550/1100, who knows, once i have the moolah saved up for it then i will rethink this, how much more would i need for a good dual disk? I know both need the input shaft..... so im not worried bout that..

Rick

Rick

 

what does the complete dual disk deal cost?

i like doing things right the 1st time, but i'm not wanting to spend a small fortune...but i will spend more if it saves me time and $$ in the long run....

BUT it needs to handle the power...

i don't really plan on drag racing (that's what the car is for...plus i like corners better anyway...) just going fast..

 

the clutch itself is around 18 to 19 hundred dollars. plus the upgraded input shaft. (dont know how much the shaft is, i already had the 1 3/8 shaft)

call peter at south bend, he'll hook you up right

 

IIIIEEEEEEE!!! wow...i hope it lasts for a VERY LONG TIME. i thought a good race clutch for the racecar was pricey. Hell...i only wanna do it once..

what kind of 'warranty' thingy does SB give? anything..

J

 

The FE is more better than the OFE.. I know a guy who has a haisley street puller clutch for sale..
http://www.nwbombers.com/forum/index...howtopic=24033

 

Dual disk start around 1500-1600+++++. Billet input shaft are $600-$700, so you are looking at a small fortune thats for sure.

I looked at all options, Peter didn't recommend the FE, he assured me that the OFE would hold 500 with the new and improved pressure plate. Almost stock manners. FE he said will be very rough engauaging and backing.

Couple people are still running the OFE with 600hp with no slipping.

 

I believe peter has a very good warranty for his clutches... I wouldnt be surprised if it some sort of limited lifetime warranty on them... Or you can resend your core back and have it rebuilt for a low price...

Rick

 

Right! My buddy just blew through his OFE on the dyno at 505 hp..
He now has a FE..

 

I am in the same boat also, started with a Ofe, then a fe know going to a DD. I wish I would have known know what I didn't know then would have paid for the twins .

 

Ok if you say so hotmopr.

His name is Tomeygun on TDR. Here is a couple of quotes

Originally Posted by HPetrat
Had to change my clutch about 8 months ago, and after talking to Piers, I went with a 13 1/4 " CON OFE conversion.
I have been very pleased with this clutch and its holding power. My rig: 98 QCab long box 4X4 12V last dyno run 418Hp (have bigger injectors now and airflow) and I frequently tow 10-11,000 lbs.
Would definetly recommend the SouthBend Clutch.

FYI, the previous clutch was a Luk Pro Gold that lasted about 8 1/2 months and desintergrated itself (with less horsepower going through it).

HP



I have the same clutch - MU13.125- OFE...

I know its crazy, buts it holds 600hp on the street... Only slipped when asked to hold a 4wd - 2nd gear launch from 2500 rpms...

I give this clutch a big thumbs up for quality, Althought I would go with the higher plate load thats now available...
Here is what is done to his rig 2003 3500 QUAD CAB,SO/5-SPD, TST/EZ, SLEDPULLER 66, SBC MU13-1.25 CON OFE, 5" STACKS , GOT FLUX ?!, DPP Fuel pump, CP3 modified by FLOOR-IT Diesel! -- STL, MO DYNO Day Video!

DYNO Runs (W/ Video) <-- (604.8hp!)

Also numerous others over 500hp with the OFE holding fine. Consider its rated at 450/1000 that is awesome.

Kurtis