Clutch problems
Clutch problems
The fun keeps continuing....
While in Indiana over the weekend - and on the trip back - seems like I have a new problem that cropped up. It seems like my clutch isn't disengaging completely when I put the pedal to the floor - it grinds going in to reverse and I pretty much just have to punch it in there to get it to go. It also seems like changes between gears are hanging up. Is there any adjustment in the clutch pedal assembly, or is it one of those things that you just replace because its non-servicable / non-adjustable? If so, should I just get an OEM one from a parts store or is there a better option? I need to have it up and running soon - have a race two weekends from now (April 2nd) that I need my tow rig up for.

While in Indiana over the weekend - and on the trip back - seems like I have a new problem that cropped up. It seems like my clutch isn't disengaging completely when I put the pedal to the floor - it grinds going in to reverse and I pretty much just have to punch it in there to get it to go. It also seems like changes between gears are hanging up. Is there any adjustment in the clutch pedal assembly, or is it one of those things that you just replace because its non-servicable / non-adjustable? If so, should I just get an OEM one from a parts store or is there a better option? I need to have it up and running soon - have a race two weekends from now (April 2nd) that I need my tow rig up for.
No adjustments on the clutch pedal assembly. You might have a broken pressure plate finger or a broken spring in the disk or something. Whatever the issue is (assuming that your hydraulics are working fine) is going to require dropping the transmission.
There is a TSB or writeup on checking the hydraulics. Check the wiki, or Geno's maybe. Haven't tried it, since I figured it was just time to change it on my 94. The guy that runs the store here sells the replacement HD ones from southbend, or rockauto sells 2 or 3 brands of one piece pre bled goodness for a little less coin. I'm not really sure of the differences between the two, but Larry (I think that's the name of the guy that runs this site) can help you out if it appears your clutch disc/fingers/etc are in order.
Looks like the travel needed at the slave cylinder is 23-24 mm, going to check that out. I'm really hoping its the hydraulics instead of the clutch itself - don't have the $$ for a South Bend right now! Unfortunately I can't get the truck in my garage at all - so if its the clutch, i'm going to have to have someone else do it.
FWIW I drove my truck home 65 miles (20 total was in town) with a clutch that wouldn't disengage (slipped it so bad on a sled pull it warped the flywheel/PP) just need to shut it off when shifting from forward to reverse gears, and match RPM for up/downshifting while driving.
Take a look (if you haven't already) at the slave cylinder, they are made of plastic and have broken before. Have someone push the clutch in while you watch it (external) and see if it pops out more than 1mm or so.
Take a look (if you haven't already) at the slave cylinder, they are made of plastic and have broken before. Have someone push the clutch in while you watch it (external) and see if it pops out more than 1mm or so.
Yeah, that was my first thought was a broken mount on the slave cylinder. Going to try swapping the hydraulics tonight (found some locally) & putting on the ladder bars I picked up this weekend. We'll see what happens! I'm definitely in the market for a clutch soon - but just blew my last 'fun' paycheck on a new compressor & plasma for the garage - so its going to have to wait a few weeks. To top it all off - the reason i'm driving the truck around now - the fuel pump in my A4 finally died with 150k on the clock. A lot of fun happening all at once!
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