muddindodge

does anyone make a chip or computer programer for a 94 2500?? i have yet to find one!! i guess i just have to work on the pump and get a plate for it?? i want some black smoke!!!!!!! whats the easy/cheapest way?

513yj

elbow grease....
that particular truck is all mechanical and you have to tinker with it yourself or have someone do it. someone had a good write up
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=free+12v+mods

MikeR

"Chips" didn't exist for these things until you get to the 24 valves in the 98's.

(and "chip" is a Ford term)

dbrick

But------ There are some cool things you can do!! For not much $$

displacedtexan

To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more top end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.

Here are some cutaway pics of a P-Pump, they should help you understand how things work- http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182

greenrig

nice right up, Displaced. i like the 'plug the wastegate line' idea. does anyone have a photo of this mod so i cant get it wrong?

wcbcruzer

There's some on ebay. Or you can drill and tap your current elbow like I did. Get an elbow instead of just completely blocking the line. However, you won't notice ANY difference until you add more fuel.

displacedtexan

I have an elbow, but if you aren't pushing way to much fuel you will be just fine with the blocked line. It has served many guys well.

greenrig

there have been mods done to my truck but unknown mods. it smokes and get poor mpg (13/15) so i thought more boost would help since the fuel is there. plus it really only smokes because of a lack of spooling, once spooling its fine. so i guess thats low end smoking?? hope that make sense. any guesses? i have a bhaf coming in the mail but i really dont think that is going to cure the smoke.

displacedtexan

If I were you I'd tighten the starwheel a little and pull the afc housing back a little.

There is some tuning involved in keeping the smoke down on the 12v trucks.

greenrig

is this something a newbie should be doing? i would love to try this but now i am going to scramble for more diagrams so i know which is starwheel and what to loosen to move the afc housing back. any good links that really spell it out?

can you explain what this procedure does and how its related to my issues? thanks for your help!

wcbcruzer

Check out www.tstproducts.com for installation instructions on fuel plates and I think gsk.

displacedtexan

The pics at the bottom of my first post are cutaways of the injection pump, I figured out how it works from them. I did all that stuff within a week of buying my truck.

The plug on top exposes the starwheel, I'd move it to the back of the truck (Use a flathead screwdriver to turn it. The AFC has four bolts at the corners, just loosen them to pull it back. The holes are enlongated, not round.

greenrig

thank you. ok, the starwheel. its threaded with the teeth. so to move it toward the back of the truck i would be also tightening that spring? and how many turns to make a difference? and will there be fuel or oil under the plug? any pressure or repriming necessary? and to move the afc housing back you mean push it back toward the back of the truck too? and how far?
thanks for walking me through this. i will be one happy cummins owner if i can get this figured out.

oh and i put the bhaf in today and it definately breathes easier but still smokes.

displacedtexan

Yes, tightening the spring. When I am tuning mine I will usually use the screwdriver as far as I can turn it 3 times and drive around the block. See if that puts it where I want it.

I would push the AFC as far back as you can, and tighten the starwheel 6-10 clicks and see how you like it. If I was closer I'd help ya, but I doubt you want to drive to Tulsa, OK