My truck is apart doing various projects.

The PS pump was groaning before I started the tear down. It has had a leak, I have a repair kit and definitely plan to fix that.

I'd like to fix the leak while truck is down.

BUT I'm wondering if it would be better to wait until the truck is running so I could better diagnose any problems, since unit wasn't functioning right when truck went out of service...

If something was broken, would it be OBVIOUS when I took it apart?

Just don't want to drain the fluid, repair the leak, then find out when I start 'er up that I have to redo the job

 

Any comments?
I have pretty limited internet access right now so I'm only checking in sporadically,
thanks much
Jenni

 

Jenni, depends on where the leak is, if it is engne oil from between the units, I would probably cange the seal out while the truck is down, if it is from the pump, well, I guess I would still do it, but you are right, you won't be able to test it until the truck is running again.

If it wasn't functioning right, I would think you should be able to see anything mechanical, like broken drive tangs.

Here is some reading up to do.

http://fixinrams.com/

 

Thanks, thats the kit I bought. I do need to review the DVD...
Maybe I'll give him a call and see what he would reccommend...
If the problems are all obvious on inspection, then I'd rather do it now
and if needed, get a fix while the truck is still stranded in the garage anyways...
And it would just be nice to have everything done and ready to go at one time...
Thanks again

 

$60 for a seal kit You can get the same thing, minus the dvd from cummins for about $11. It comes with written, easy to understand instructions. (with pictures!) If the pump is only leaking engine oil then that is all you need. If it is also leaking PS fluid, then the most likely culprit is the large o-ring that goes around the pump where it slides into the reservoir. That parts kit can be found at O'Reillys, about $8. It is a Saginaw rebuild kit.

 

Thanks Games, I already bought the kit with the CD, but I left the CD at work, so right now its useless. I don't appreciate that there were no written instructions with the fixinrams kit...
even so, I decided to just go ahead and remove the PS/vacuum unit last night using my .Haynes manual.still have a bolt or two to remove (an easy one)

man, I had to stand on the wrench to get the 2 bolts to the crank block off! Despite spray with loosener, tried breaker bar, tried my pipe (not enough room) coulda removed the battery easy enuf but I didn't...
fortunately I was careful and didn't round of the bolts at all...

hate that I'll probably have to wait a week to get back to it...bits and pieces, hope I remember how to install...

 

LOL barngal, there is a reason they are tight..... Make sure you torque them back or they will vibrate off.

 

Did you remove the inlet tube first? Makes it much easier. You also need to disconnect the plug into the oil pressure switch to prevent accidental damage when you pull the assy rearward.

 

Decided to just go ahead and replace the PS/VP unit while the truck is in the garage.
Peter Gould was wonderful at helping me rebuild the hydroboost.
He reccomended I replace the ps pump because of the burnt smell inside,
although my shaft had no-none-side to side play.
I figure since he's the guru here, and he wants to make sure that there's no leaks, I'll just go with it.

got a remanufactured from Autozone, $100! (core swap not included)
took 2 days and it came defective, one of the stud holes wasn't threaded.

Napa has one in stock I can pick up tonite...$50!
what gives? Will the Napa one be just as good? Didn't check Kragen...


Only thing, Napa wanted to know if I had a Magnafilter system?
Never heard of it, said no...I did keep saying it was a 12v diesel..
gonna get it tonite unless somebody has experience otherwise...

 

I went thru 4 rebuilds in less than a year, NAPA, O'Reilly (2) and one from up in OR, forgot the name. I finally spent the extra $60 and got a new OEM one from http://www.mopar4less.com/. Of course I do a lot more driving than you, but my original one lasted over 500k, so I should never have to replace one again.

 

Thanks GAmes,
I hate mail ordering this kind of thing, but a new OEM part, sure sounds worth the extra money.

I'm going to pick up the cheapo one, see how long to get the real thing
and go from there. If I can't work on it this weekend then it will definitely work for me to wait for the new part.
Thanks!

 

That is a Dodge dealer in Farmington, NM. If you call, be sure to ask for "internet parts" and once you get a quote, verify it is internet price, or else you will get the same over the counter price you would get in CA.