Bobcat698

Ok I just got back from the Chrysler garage from getting my caster settings adjusted in hopes to get rid of the Death Wobble..

I was given 3.2 Left, 3.5 Right settings to try to get rid of the right pull and the death wobble..

The closest they could get it was 3.5 right, 3.2 left.

They also found the bushing on the steering stabilizer to be worn, so we installed a new bolt which took a lot of play out of it.

I hate my usual "death wobble" rendevous point at the usual speed and nearly lost control.. it was MUCH worse than before...

What do I look at next??

gcdodge

Tires make sure they are load range "E" these trucks are heavy

Cowhand

Track bar, tie rod ends and steering box....

How are your front tires wearing?

9 times out of 10 more caster will fix the DW. Looks like you were # 10....

Bobcat698

Front tires are wearing evenly.

No play in trackbar (lukes link) and the steering box is new and has been tightened up.

Tie rod ends looked fine to me and the tech..

Cowhand

Have you had someone rock the wheel while you look at the track bar?

The only time I've ever had a problem after setting the caster was when the front wheels were severely out of balance. Ended up they were out of round.....

Bobcat698

Yes, I have done that track bar test several times.

Cowhand

How many miles on the track bar and TRE's?

Bobcat698

Lukes link has about 7k miles..

TRE's.. maybe original?? Most likely...

Bobcat698

Its really severe now.. I mean bumps that would cause dw only when I was going around 80MPH now cause it at 45-50MPH

Cowhand

I always got it at 35-40 MPH, anything over that I could drive "through" it.

I'd look close at the TRE's, mine seemed fine until I changed them. You might give the Luke's another turn if you can, in my experience the LL hasn't prolonged the inevitable for more than a few thousand miles.

I hate to be a wet blanket, but my DW didn't disappear for good until I did this...

Bobcat698

I'll look into the tierod ends again..
What do you mean about giving the Lukes link "another turn"?

How do you like the cross-over steering? Is it tighter than the stock setup and what other benefits are there?

How much did it cost you and can you direct me somewhere to purchase a setup like that?

Also, the DT radius arms.. How much $$??

Thanks!

Cowhand

Try cranking down another 1/2 turn or so on the plug in the back of the LL.

I'll try to get a picture of my front tires before and after the x-over steering. Huge difference. Steering feels much tighter and the truck stays between the white lines without working at it. Front tires used to go ~ 10-15K before they were shot, this set I haven't rotated since I put them on and the fronts are wearing better than the rears. 8-10K so far and no cupping at all.

I like the x-over better because it stays aligned, doesn't toe the wheels out when the suspension compresses, and I can get the heims for the same or cheaper than a good TRE. Also feels much tighter. You can get the x-over steering here...

http://thurenfabrication.com/crossover.html

As for the DT arms.....you'll have to call David @ DT on that one. The ones in the picture I tested for him, the new and improved version is sitting on my garage floor waiting on powder coat. I know what the original arms were going to retail at, but as there is more material and production cost involved in the new ones, I have no idea what DT is getting for them.

I can say this though, the ones I have on now made the truck feel way more solid, and I've had no alignment/DW issues whatsoever. The new ones are actually beefier and the geometry is a little better too.

I'll have them on in the next week or two and post the results....

Bobcat698

I got maybe a 1/2 turn on the LL.

I didn't get much of a hint of DW when I went over my usual place.


Which is more likely to fix DW? X-over or the DT arms?

Also, can you explain the "bent bar" higher price versus the straight bar on the crossover systems at thuren's site?

Thanks

Cowhand

"not much of a hint"?, I take this to mean it's better? If it improved, the track bar is most likely the root cause. LL works fine on TRE's, but I'm not a big fan of them on the track bar. They never seem to work for long. I'd spend the money on an aftermarket track bar before x-over steering.

X-over steering would be more likely to lessen the chance of recurring DW than the arms, but I'm still leaning toward track bar at this point.

The "bent" bar has a dogleg on each end to clear the sway bar mounts (like mine). The straight bar is more for guys going after max articulation, they usually ditch the sway bar and cut the mounts off the axle. I don't recommend it for a primarily street driven truck.

Bobcat698

I didn't go over it several times to try it..
It seemed to be a BIT improved.. I'll have to drive over it several times to "test" it out

But I see no play in either end of the trackbar when steering at a stop with the truck off..
Could it still move enough while moving at high speed though?

There is still slop in my steering.. I don't know if its the end of the pitman arm possibly worn out? I think there MAY be a little play by that end.. Is it really worth replacing all the TRE's with Lukes link or is there a better fix?? I can't see spending $60 (isn't that what LL costs?) per link when I could get the full crossover for $340..

Also, upon further inspection I see the left front tire is cupping very badly.. and I have 650lbs in the bed constantly now for weight at the truck pulls, but it is placed as far forward as possible. Truck sags just a TAD bit towards the back even though I did install a 2" lift add-a-leaf in the back.