Broken flange on the head?!?!
Broken flange on the head?!?!
I have a problem, don't we all. On the #1 cylinder where the exhaust manifold bolts to the head are two "flanges" where the bolts screw in. the top one is broke. Is this common? Why did it happen? The truck has never been above 1300, and I always let it cool to 350. Is there anyway to fix it, or will I need a new head.
Thanks
Fred
Thanks
Fred
I would guess it was just a casting flaw but???
I would find a good welder and try and weld it up. you will probably need to pull the man off and grind a V notch along the crack prior to welding. A head swap will cost you a few bucks so that would be my last option.
I would find a good welder and try and weld it up. you will probably need to pull the man off and grind a V notch along the crack prior to welding. A head swap will cost you a few bucks so that would be my last option.
Come On Now Fred....
All we need to do is look at the exhaust manifold color and can tell you its been over 1300 degrees,otherwise it would not be the color it is.
Heat expansion and improper cooling are a couple of causes of this but I also know that some of the head were prone to cracking there and inbetween cylinders 1-2 and 5-6.I have also seen them crack due to the exaust manifolds shrinkage.
I am not sure it can be welded and it last due to the heat.It would probably just crack along the weld after it was done.........Andy
All we need to do is look at the exhaust manifold color and can tell you its been over 1300 degrees,otherwise it would not be the color it is.
Heat expansion and improper cooling are a couple of causes of this but I also know that some of the head were prone to cracking there and inbetween cylinders 1-2 and 5-6.I have also seen them crack due to the exaust manifolds shrinkage.
I am not sure it can be welded and it last due to the heat.It would probably just crack along the weld after it was done.........Andy
"Come On Now Fred....
All we need to do is look at the exhaust manifold color and can tell you its been over 1300 degrees,otherwise it would not be the color it is."->Hammer
What color would that be? All I see is rust and soot. My little 160 pump can barley get it to 1300 and that is locked in 4th at 95mph, which Ive only done 3 or 4 times. I'm really not too hard on my truck, thats why I have a hard time believing it was overheating. I guess my pyro could be off, but it seems fine to me.
edit- I forgot to mention: I have a small fuel leak on the #1 injector, could fuel seepage have caused it?
Fred
All we need to do is look at the exhaust manifold color and can tell you its been over 1300 degrees,otherwise it would not be the color it is."->Hammer
What color would that be? All I see is rust and soot. My little 160 pump can barley get it to 1300 and that is locked in 4th at 95mph, which Ive only done 3 or 4 times. I'm really not too hard on my truck, thats why I have a hard time believing it was overheating. I guess my pyro could be off, but it seems fine to me.
edit- I forgot to mention: I have a small fuel leak on the #1 injector, could fuel seepage have caused it?
Fred
it was contraction of the exhaust manifold its gone through so many heat cycles it shrunk. it is like what happens to the 53 blocks so many cycles and then crack because of shrinking and expanding.
That's the reason people who care about their engines replace the the manifold with a three piece manifold that allows shrinking and expanding from heat.
This explains the common problem and how the three piece manifold solves it> http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeATS3pc.htm
Problem is much worse on the 24 valve where the manifold usually cracks in the middle underneath. On a 12 it bends the #1 & #6 bolts and either breaks the the manifold or head.
I've found that if you see your manifold bolts on both ends of the manifold are bent that just unloosening them they will go back straight and you can retorque. They will usually stay straight and keep the stress off the manifold and head.
This explains the common problem and how the three piece manifold solves it> http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeATS3pc.htm
Problem is much worse on the 24 valve where the manifold usually cracks in the middle underneath. On a 12 it bends the #1 & #6 bolts and either breaks the the manifold or head.
I've found that if you see your manifold bolts on both ends of the manifold are bent that just unloosening them they will go back straight and you can retorque. They will usually stay straight and keep the stress off the manifold and head.
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Just for reference I was not hard on my motor and I always let it cool. Oh well **** happens. I will get a new 3 piece manifold and try to weld the break, and let everyone know what happens.
Fred
Fred
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