Truck in the signature line, just put brand new batteries in it a year ago (May 2008). The past month or so, she's been slow turning to start - not enough voltage, but started and ran great once she lit. The past week, we have had work (YIPPEE!!!) so had to be running the truck, and now - poof, both batteries are bad....
Today I had them replaced under warranty, and still, something is dragging them down - barely got her started at the last stop of the day to get home. Alternator is putting out a good 15 volts, cables are clean, etc. No lights, I can't see anything obvious that would be drawing them down this badly.

Sidebar to this issue - the oil pressure gage is going nutso, flopping around like a dying trout. I understand the sender unit on this truck is nothing to brag on, but can this issue be related? Fuel gage has never been good....

Regardless, Where should I look first to hunt down the draining culprit?

Praying hard that is STOPS RAINING so I don't have to crawl around in the muck to do this stuff tomorrow.... I am getting too old and arthritic to love working on trucks any more.

Kate

 

Disconnect both negative clamps at the batteries.
Connect a test lamp inbetween one disconnected clamp and the battery post.
Unplug the underhood light.
If you have an ignition off current draw the lamp will glow.
The brighter it glows the more draw you have.
Start pulling fuses under the hood one at a time till you get to the one that makes the light dim.
Next move to the inside fuse box and repeat. Remember when you open the door that the dome light will come on. Keep the light switch on the door frame pushed down.
You will always have a small amount of draw with the key off for the clock and computer.

 

Thank you Bill. I appreciate your taking time to reply - you never steer me wrong.

Kate

 

Got back from doing the little morning hauling job for hubby (now that I am unemployed after twenty years, I seem to have less time than ever!), grabbed a sandwich and addressed The Truck.

Followed Bill's instructions - whoops, batteries are FINE, both holding high at 13v, and no drain from terminal to cable end on either battery. Put the meter on just to be sure hokey test light wasn't fooling me - ZERO current when the key is off.

I tried to start the truck before disconnecting cables - and it barely turned at all, sounded exactly like a low voltage item. No way is she starting today.

So, what next... crawled under and checked starter cables - tight and good just like I installed them when I replaced the cables right after we bought the truck. Big red positive, little black (?) signal wire next to it - there's another wire I can't see but can feel, coming out of the motor case and going over to a terminal on the (?) solenoid, and it feels tight too - can't SEE it though. If I have to drop this starter it's going to be more like work - will have to drop front driveline to make room for it to come out, and am not sure I can ever lift the dang thing in my state of advancing decrepitude.

Can these symptoms point to a starter gone south? IF so, how can I test short of having to pull that big chunk of iron? I have left the battery cables disconnected for now. Should I do the same test on positive side? or??

I'm truly lost here, electrical has never been my strong suit.

Kate

 

Before you drop the starter check if the cables are corroded under the insulation where you can't see it.
Especially needed if there was severe corrosion when you bought the truck.
Flexing them back a forth will usually work.
Or you can hook both batteries back up and run some heavy jumper cables directly to the starter then try to start it.
If you don't have heavy jumpers use both cables first for the positive then for the negative.
This will rule out a connection/cable problem.

Dropping the starter and fixing it up isn't all that hard.
I've never had to drop the driveshaft.
Hardest part is the getting at the top bolt, the bolts are very tight.
Here's some instructions and a place to buy parts http://www.fostertruck.com/contacts_install.htm

 

I think you might have done it wrong, you should see some current...well under an amp, but not likely to show zero.

Did you only unhook the two neg cables (not the positives). And run the meter on dc current, 10 amp setting (be sure to have the meter leads in the right location too, sometimes they require moving to another hole).

If that all seems correct and you still show 0.00 amps...your meter might have a blown fuse. Open the door to the truck and let the dome light come on. Then you should have some draw, couple amps maybe. If you still show zero with the light on, or if the light won't come on...somethings wrong.

 

Big sigh.

Any body know a really good place to find the battery cables and the cable to the starter? I found one guy referred off an earlier thread here, in Arizona - but he's got like a three-four month waiting list for his cable sets!

Will be calling Foster in the AM for a starter, and would love to order in the new cables too.

 

My interstate battery dealer will custom make any cables within a few hours. What they require is that you remove the old cable and bring them in, then they can duplicate them (even with heavier gauge if you desire).

You can test cables by running a volt meter set to measure DC volts from the positive post on the starter, and the other lead to the positive on your battery.

Reading when cranking (or attempting to crank) should be near zero....the higher the voltage the worse your cables or connections are.

 

Call a John Deer or Case-NH-IH dealer. Most of them around here will custom make cables and they use 2/0 or larger wire.

What made you decide the starter was bad?

Did you clean the ground connections?

edit
Call Dynomite Diesel in Monroe. They might be able to help you
I'm about 1500 miles away from you on Hwy #2 or I would offer to help.