Left work today and the truck wouldn't start, which is very weird. It always kicks off as soon as you turn the key. After a couple 10 second turn-overs it started, but stalled when I put it in gear and tried to pull out.
Got it started and let it idle for a few more minutes, but had pathetic accelleration. I did manage to make it home, going 0-60 in about 5 minutes.
You can rev the engine up to high rpm's and it seems to run fine, there's just nothing behind the gas pedal when you try to go!

My guess is fuel filter, but do they go that quick? This morning it seemed to run fine, no problems at all. So it sat in the parking lot for 7 hrs and just about died.

Is there a quick way to determine if it's the lift pump vs. bad fuel filter?

'98 12V, 2wd, 150k miles, does have a fuel plate in it but not sure which one.

FYI - Last month I ran a couple tanks of 100 biodiesel. I changed the fuel filter after the first tank. The current filter has another tank of 100 through it, and a couple tanks of straight diesel since.

 

From what I've read here, check and make sure your fuel shutoff selenoid is pulling all the way up. Make sure the rubber boot isn't rotted/torn and getting stuck in there. Have someone crank the motor over and make sure its going all the way up. I'm sure some of the gurus around here will chime in pretty soon and figure this out for you. HTH

MIke

 

Can somone tell me where that solenoid is? Fortunately I've never done much but regular maintenance the couple years I've had this truck. Unfortunately that means I don't know much about it

 

Welcome to DTR.

Fill out your signature so we know what truck you have.

Also, use the search function to find out more about your truck. You'll be amazed at the info in here. If you can't find it by all means just ask.

 

Solenoid: it is on the drivers side of the engine, behind and below the injection pump. It is not easy to see, the bottom half is a rubber bellows about 1-1/2" wide and 3" long. One thing about biodiesel is that it is a very powerful degreaser/solvent. It is not uncommon to have very clogged filters during the first few tanks of it, as it tends to dissolve all the gunk in the main tank and lines, stuffing it in your filter. It is a little odd to have it clog all at once though. You also have a small filter in front of the lift pump, in the preheater, that could be a problem. Cummins sells a kit for less than 10.00. Good luck.

 

Also your location. Your symptoms are classic fuel gel if you experience cooler weather.
BTW, Any percentage of bio raises the cloud/gel point.

 

Thanks, and I will start searching. Buddy of mine started talking lift pump problems and I saw the price tag and got a little spooked! I'm familier with the bio properties, that's why I stopped running the 100 when it started cooling off about a month ago. I ran a tank of the 50/50 mix, and then probably the last 3 full tanks has been reg diesel. I'll look into the other filter as well - I've never replaced that (maybe you don't usually have to).

Today wasn't especially cool at all, we're in the 50's. Last week we were in the 20's for most of the week with no problems at all.

Thanks again for the tips/info!

 

It sounds exactly like the problem I just had and hopefully cured. My first experience was I just lost power and the engine died. I replaced both the fuel flter and pre-screen. I was good for another 3,000 miles until last month when symptoms more like yours materialized. I bought a lift pump from Piers for $129, as the original had 122K on it. The pump seemed OK when I removed it but I have no way of testing. I also bought a bypass valve for $55 and replaced the rubber lines to the engine. When I did the lift pump and lines, I removed the starter which made access much easier. I also installed studs in lieu of the factory bolts for the lift pump which made that installation much easier also. I don't have many miles on my fix, but the engine seems to run much stronger than ever before. If I were to "guess" in retrospect, I think the problem was the bypass valve. Now after two problems stranding me and almost stranding me, I feel a lot more confident in the truck.

To really know what's happening with the fuel, you need a fuel pressure gauge. I intend to install one in the spring. It's too friggin cold up here now!! :-)

Good Luck

 

Sounds like replacing the pump may be a good idea even if that isn't exactly where my problem lies. What pump did you use? The FASS system?

Is the bypass valve part of the pump assembly?

I'll do the filter today and see if that makes any difference at all.

IF it is the lift pump, should I avoid driving it? I need to get to work tomorrow...

 

Piers sent me the improved version of the original mechanical lift pump(it had the latest part number). The bypass valve bolts to the P7100 injection pump and is essentially the banjo bolt for the return line. Be sure to check the sediment bowl on the fuel heater as well as the fuel filter. Most people don't even know they exist and they are usually neglected.

Drive it if you have AAA, if not, I would expect you have a 50/50 chance of getting stuck.

Good Luck

 

Update - I just replaced the fuel filter, no change. I couldn't even get the truck started.
Got my wife to come out and help me crank over the engine to check the shutdown solenoid. It was moving when she cranked the engine, but I'd say less than 1/4" or so. So I helped it a little and bingo the engine started. Not sure it's the immediate cause of my problems, but I guess I won't know until I replace the solenoid and check it out.

 

MDMike, you called it! Turn the truck to ON position, pushed the solenoid up till it clicked and it started right up. Took it around the block and she's back to normal!

Time to replace the solenoid, but it's easy enough to get started until I can get to the parts house.

THANKS GUYS!!

 

Hey Dan,

Not sure what these thing cost in your parts...but you might want to have a look at Larry B's shutoff solenoids:

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/

 

DON'T REPLACE THE SOLENOID!!!
Likely nothing is wrong with it unless it is very visibly burned up on the outside.
The solenoid is probably the most needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, expensive too. The solenoid is a very simple, sturdy device that will easily last the life of the truck. It either works or it doesn't, there is no such thing as one getting weak.
The problem is almost always a corroded blue wire from the driver's side battery or a bad relay on the firewall. The rubber boot that protects the solenoid can fall apart allowing gunk and rust to bind the solenoid, clean it up and replace the boot.
Relay and boot are availible for a good price here http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm