I converted my 1997 from an Auto to a NV4500 5spd last year. I finally got aroun to typing up some notes on the conversion and thought I would post them here in the hope that they could help someone doing the conversion. Any questions just ask me.

It really isn't too hard. I did all of the work myself with the exception of having my Brother In-Law help me line up and bolt the tranny in. That is really the only 2 man part of the job. So here it goes. You do not need to change the whole brake pedal assembly and bracket. You need to just get the brake and clutch pedal and pull the pin for the auto brake pedal and hang the 2 new pedals. Takes about 15 minutes to do.

You do not need to change the transmission adapter plate on the back of the engine. The auto and the manuals are the same. You do not have to remove the starter. The clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are not hard to do. Just get the master/slave cylinder for your year truck. My 1997 had the indentations on the cowl where you drill 2 small holes to install the clutch master resevoir. You remove the black plug/cap in the firewall and with my year truck you just push the clutch pedal assembly in the firewall and twist it and locks into place. Connect the rod to the clutch pedal and your done. Then run the lines down to the bell housing for the slave cylinder.

You will need a bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, and fork. The slave cylinder bolts to the bellhousing and is simple to install. The bell housing uses the same bolts as the auto housing to bolt to the adapter plate. You will need new flywheel bolts since the manual bolts are longer than the auto. You will need 8 pressure plate to flywheel bolts. You will need 4 new bolts to bolt the tranny to the bell housing.

The auto transfer case has a 23 spline input from the tranny and the manual needs a 29 spline input from the tranny. You have to either get a new or used T-Case or change the input gear and bearing. I changed the gear and bearing and it was pretty straight forward but you have to disassemble the T-Case which isn't hard.

The 4wd shift linkage bolts to the extension housing of the auto and the manual through 97. After 97 the shifter bolted to the floor. The auto shifter bracket has a larger spread on the mounting holes than the manual does so I had to modify the bracket to work. I cut the spacer off of the one end and used a large washer to catch part of the bracket. I know it sounds confusing but it isn't. It is pretty straight forward.

The front drive shaft is too long from the auto and the rear drive shaft is too short. I got used drive shafts from a junk yard from a manual truck. The 94-97 shift tower were part of the top cover on the tranny. The 98+ bolt on. The top part of the shifter is different too so they don't interchange. I used the 94-97 shifter and boot and it worked out well. I have all of the part numbers if needed.

The wiring is simple. The new master slave cylinder assembly has a black plug on it by the clutch pedal for the starting circuit. If you want the cruise control to work you cut the plug off. Take 1 black wire to ground and the other wire you run down to the 3 wire plug for the neutral safety switch/back up wires on the auto. The center wire is black and white and you run the wire from the clutch pedal plug down to it and connect them. The other two outside wires on the plug are for the back up lights. One is green and brown and one is purple and brown. You run those wires up to the new plug on the top cover of the new tranny. There is a 2 prong connector on the top cover of the manual tranny for it.

I'm sure I might have forgot a few things. It is easy though. Any ?'s just ask. Pete

 

Pete is the pioneer of this 5spd swap revolution that hit, lol, but seriously thanks again for all the help. It made the swap go smooth knowing what I was in for.

 

No problem. I had a lot of help from other members here on DTR and TDR. Just thought I'd put the info out there since there seems to be a lot of guys doing the swap now.

 

part #'s and where you sourced them would be great. I've got a 95 w/ auto that is begging for a real fix to the problems.

 

I can post the part numbers on here or send them to your e-mail if you have on. I got some parts new from Dodge and some from the classifieds on here and TDR. The used parts I got from junk yards using a national data base search called http://car-part.com

Let me know about the part numbers. Pete

 

Pete,

Thanks for all the information. My truck is 2WD. Does this make any difference?

Thanks,
Mike

 

Less hassle worrying about changing the t-case bearing.
Need differnt u tho for the d-shaft

 

i did the same thing on my 91.5 it was fun

 

BOY, and I want to convert to an AUTO.
Good luck with the NV4500. There are to many people who think they are junk.

 

dieselman2300 Maybe you should talk to fordkiller43 he wants to go the other way, maybe y'all could just trade.

 

That is the best way to do it. You will have every part you will need. I found someone selling everything from their manual to auto swap. Cost me some $ but it came with everything + a south bend dual disk. Best money I have spent on the truck so far

 

Problem is, I have a boat load of cash in this thing. Rebuilt Blumenthals with 1 3/8" billet shaft and a SBC 3250 DD.
Everyone wants to trade heads up for a worn out auto.

 

He would prob make work a deal with you. He just got a clutch, bell, master and slave but you never know. He is trying to do it a little at a time but it would be great to swap it all at once.

 

Wheres he located? Im in Illinois.

 

Well he's in Texas.