12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Another timing question

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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
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From: Sacramento
Another timing question

Im going to tackle my timing today and bump it up close to 16*. Im trying to read as much as possible about the process before jumping into it. If anyone has any helpful links I would appreciate it.
Thanks
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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From: Versailles, MO
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm

You can use the alternator nut to roll the engine over. Make SURE (100% Sure) that the tapered shaft is clean before setting the gear back on. Use brake cleaner to remove any oil. Take your time (pun intended) and don't bugger up the threads on the end of the pump shaft.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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JKM
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From: SunnyVale Trailer Park
Originally Posted by satburn
You can use the alternator nut to roll the engine over.
I'll argue with that, you need to be able to turn the engine forwards to set the lift on the pump, I guess you COULD do it backwards , but your going to have to turn the engine over alot of times to get it all done , if you go past your mark , you would need to turn the crank twice to get back to that spot on the pump.

You really do need a barring tool for the timing.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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From: Versailles, MO
Originally Posted by JKM
I'll argue with that, you need to be able to turn the engine forwards to set the lift on the pump, I guess you COULD do it backwards , but your going to have to turn the engine over alot of times to get it all done , if you go past your mark , you would need to turn the crank twice to get back to that spot on the pump.

You really do need a barring tool for the timing.
Then I guess you can't argue it can you? Done it 3 times now, works fine for me.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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The timing pin won't go into the gear. Im turning it over till the exhaust valve starts to close then that should get me close to where i need to be to align the pin right?
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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You need to go very slow. You will feel it, kind of a skip or a bump and its right there.
You should really do the drop valve method for the most accurate way, only use the pin to get you close to TDC.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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I felt a bump but it didn't want to go in after trying several times on the same spot. Does anyone have a good description of the drop valve method?
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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Did you pull the pin out and make sure it is not sheared off?
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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From: Sacramento
No not yet. Do I have to pull the snap ring off in order to pull the pin out? Because there is almost no way to even get in there to pull the snap ring out.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 01:32 AM
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From: Alberta
The pin has to be pulled all the way out to be sure that the end is not broken off
If you want to give me a day or 2, I can get you the drop valve method, just send a message
All I ever use these days is a dynamic timing meter to set them where I want them
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:22 AM
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Timing

I have two things to say. I watched the intake valve then it started to close I knew I was getting close. I had already removed the timing pin,so I had someone turn the engine over very slowly or you can do it yourself with a barring tool and a ratchet when you are laying on the floor. I had a drop ligth near the hole and looked in it laying on the floor. Then for later use I made a mark on the harmonic balancer the line,it was on the left hand side of the tach pickup faceing the engine,then later I made three prickpunch marks in a line.The second thing is when taking the nut and lock washer off the injector pump I held a magnet on the end of the shaft (the type that looks like a ballpoint pen) and slid the nut and washer on to the magnet so you don't drop them into the gear cover.
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