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advice-need good fuel pressure gauge

Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:10 AM
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advice-need good fuel pressure gauge

Finally getting around to mounting a fuel pressure gauge and dug out the nice one I had on a 6.5, got it out and remembered (as I'm looking at it) that it only goes to 30 lbs.. OK, money is a bit tight so I can't/won't spend $250 for another gauge (saving for Goerend trans., got the triple conv. now need the rest and just bought a Maxbrake)). Would like to mount it inside cab so I can always watch it, but considering mounting under hood on pump but afraid it will vibrate apart. Throw me your opinions and what you use, do I really need to watch it all the time, will mounting gauge on the pump be ok? Thanks
By the way, found out how much a new front grille costs, good thing the other guy bought it for me.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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If you don't mind the gauge saying water pressure for $8 you can hardly go wrong with this one http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

Install instructions https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...41&postcount=9
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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Oh man it's Sat. morn., diesel is oil, I'll just use my extra oil pressure gauge. Dang it, that's a big DUH on my part. Very glad I see I need a needle valve, didn't need to worry about that as much with my old 6.5, much lower pressure didn't hammer the gauge or I got lucky. What do you think of electric gauges vs. mechanical?
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 01:47 PM
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What do you think of electric gauges vs. mechanical?
When I first started experimenting with fuel pressure gauges at least 12 years ago I went though several electric gauges and senders before I gave up and went with a mechanical. The 12 valve FP just pulsates too much for the senders even with a needle valve, the 24 valve guys have no problems with their electric lift pumps though.
Bad thing about the electric gauges is that when they failed they would sometimes lie, just reading zero and the highest pressure they ever saw, gave you a false sense that everything was alright.
My feeling is why have a gauge if you can't trust it?

Any gauge will work, my first FP gauge came off an old acetylene regulator.
60 psi is best, if you go with 100 the graduations make it hard to see how much your FP varies.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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I'll go with your writeup, seems to be the way to go for the few bucks. One last question, without an isolator inline I would mount this underhood, so it would be fine to just pop the hood and check at idle and 2500rpm instead of always watching the pressure?
I get up to Mt. now and then, what part you in? Buy ya a cup of joe next time. If the economy changes for the better, I'll buy ya lunch.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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I live in the southern Bitterroot valley.
I like having the gauge in the cab so I can see the pressure under load, makes a big difference and would be the first to show low FP if the filter, overflow valve, etc were going.
It's not a gauge you need to look at much. Mine is mounted low with no lighting.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 05:12 PM
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Definitely mount it inside the cab. Like infidel said, you don't need to look at it much but the time you do need to look at it the most is when pulling a hill and the engine is really working. That's when you're going to have the pressure drop on you.

John
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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Had the gauge on my old 6.5 mounted inside since,.. well it was a 6.5, I shouldn't knock the old girl, it was good for 525k miles when I traded her off for a real truck. So same principle as with GM, heavy foot equals lower pressure even though vastly different setup. Thanks guys for your input, going with Infidel's writeup, seems like a good choice for little money.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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I have the set up he recommended although when I bought mine the gauge was a little different (I think it reads up to 60 psi) but it works great.

John
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for the recommendation. It is perfect. I'll put some pics in when I get time, I did a little different. Got a inexpensive liquid filled gauge (1&1/8 inch) from Summit Racing since I scrounged up the tubing outa my spare stuff, and used a rubber coated clamp from Carquest. Mounted low and I think it looks nice, for the price it looks real nice. I found out quick that I needed a overflow valve, still didn't help the slugishness, that's probably in the trans. as it is severely whooped and will be replaced in 3-6 weeks. But anyways, thanks again.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for the recommendation. It is perfect. I'll put some pics in when I get time, I did a little different. Got a inexpensive liquid filled gauge (1&1/8 inch) from Summit Racing since I scrounged up the tubing outa my spare stuff, and used a rubber coated clamp from Carquest. Mounted low and I think it looks nice, for the price it looks real nice. I found out quick that I needed a overflow valve, still didn't help the slugishness, that's probably in the trans. as it is severely whooped and will be replaced in 3-6 weeks. But anyways, thanks again.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Hope you still used a needle valve to snub the pressure spikes.
Even with a liquid filled gauge you'll never get good readings and the gauge won't last.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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yes sir

Yes, I did use a needle valve. Made sense even without worrying about smokin' a gauge, I felt that a shut off in case of line failure was the way to go. Thought about upgrading to a ss wrapped line, but that will be after Dave's tranny (cash is king). Thank you for the writeup on this.
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