My 96 2WD club cab did not come with hydro boost. Unsure if this was the norm on this year truck or not. My friend has an 00 or 01 and his has it and I would like to as well, both for towing and everyday use.

TIA

 

The change to hydro came in the mid '96 model year.
I've driven both vacuum and hydro assist have seen no difference in braking.
The main reason for the change was to avoid recall problems, if you take yours in for the recall the vacuum system get covered by an additional 7 year warranty.
My feeling is your money would be better spent trading the rear brake cylinder for the ones made for Chevy 1 tons. Cost about $14 each and swap right in in a breeze. I guarantee you will be very impressed with the difference in braking.
Napa number for the larger cylinders is 4637337

 

Thanks. I know mine needs some brake work with 238K on it, and after I do that I will go from there. I was more or less curious to see if it was availalbe so I could jump on the part if I saw them in a yard, etc.

 

Hey infedel I was wondering if the chev wheel cylinders you listed are for a 3500 or a 2500, I have a 96 3500 and would like to see better braking if possible!

 

The Chevy cylinders fit on either a 2500 or 3500. It used to be a common brake modification to use 3500 cylinders on 2500 since they are bigger and for some reason cheaper, but the Chevy cylinders are even larger yet.
I haven't met one person who wasn't impressed with the improvement, wish they were all that cheap!

 

Why not use the Dodge 3500 wheel cylinders as the TSB recommends for 2500 trucks continually hauling heavy loads? I made the change and it does make a big difference when loaded.

 

Ray, because the Chevy cylinders are even bigger than the Dodge 3500 ones.
I have a table somewhere that equates cylinder diameter x pressure = force, just a few hundredths inch larger multiplies out too several hundred pounds more braking force.

 

Say Infidel,
I take it the bolts, lines and stuff screw right in without any adapters and the shoes slip in as well. Just checking, sounds like a great swap.
Wayne

 

Everything fits perfectly.
The springs are a bit of a grunt to remove. Even though I have brake spring tools I've found a pair of needle nose Vice-Grips to be the best. Just clamp on to the spring hook, position yourself in the wheelwell and pull with both hands and your knees. The first one will be a grunt but after that when your method is figured out it's a piece of cake. As with any brake job, one wheel at a time so you have a "diagram" on how everything goes back together. Of course you will have to bleed your rear brakes so pick up some brake fluid with the new cylinders.

 

You don't even need to remove any of the brake shoes or hardware. Just push the shoes up a little bit on the top pivot point, and it will pull the out slightly. More then enough to push the wheel cylinder out. I just did the swap and it took less then 15 minutes per side beginning to end.

The wheels cylinders you want are for the GM 1 ton DUALLY. SRW models use the same size as dodge 3500. The difference is 1/8" diameter total. But it makes a HUGE difference.

 

Ok, when we go to Napa or else where to get the chevy slaves and they ask what year, style of axle, 4x4, and so on, does it matter?

 

Yeah, also does it need to have A/C? god forbid they know what a 14 bolt rear end is

 

Just tell them you want part number 4637337 or TSW4637337 , that's all they need to know. You can even buy them on line, click here- (hope this link works)
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...7&prmenbr=5806

I tried just wedging the tops of the shoes apart to change the cylinders once, it does work, but I felt it took longer fighting the tight space while brake fluid continued to drip. The way I do it all that is removed is two springs and a backing plate, the shoes stay in place.

 

Okay thanks!

 

Try vise grips to pinch off the brake line to stop the fluid from dripping