Swarthy Dago

If his timing is good and still has the symptoms then it has to be fuel correct ?

starflite3

I am no expert but I see where you ground the fuel plate.
Was that during the swap?
I have herad of the gov. arm (I think) having to be adjusted on an install of a zero plate. I believe it can hang up on something.
Could that be your issue?
Please some one tell me if I am off base here. I can take criticism if I gain knowledge.

dieseldemon

You put it in a chev did you hook up the turbo to an intercooler or not at all?
If you did not hook up the turbo to the engine it will have a high speed miss(not enough air)

Tate

I wouldn't think that would be the case. The foot will go under the plate if you give it enough throttle to go that far in the pump. Just trying to bring the rpm up shouldn't take the gov arm that far ahead.

I've had my gov arm go under the AFC when I gave it a little throttle taking off and the rpm's dipped to around 600. It just fueled pretty hard and stuck there for a second. Just like if you pinned it.

1-5-3-6-2-4

just a though, the fuel plate cut out faces rearward, yes? afc foot sits in it? just to be sure I didn;t put it in backwards.

fuel pressure is next on the list. where do most guys take 12v fuel press? t-inline. I don't see a nice port that I could tap into like the 24v

Lil Dog

Banjo bolt adapter probably the best.

infidel

Your plate is facing the right way, rearwards.
The way to access fuel pressure is to tap a port in the injection pump inlet banjo bolt.
Instructions> How to Check 12 Valve Fuel Pressure

1-5-3-6-2-4

I ran a quick fitting into the bleeder port on the fuel filter housing just for testing right now.


I read 14psi at idle and still have same running problem. haven't moved timing up yet though. pinched off return line pressure shot up to 40-50 psi. but still no change in running condition.

will change timing up and report back.

1-5-3-6-2-4

Ok Master Tate verified my measurements as correct. process correct, timing table correct. we turned up to 16.5*. no change in running condition still. it made some fire out the turbo when running poorly. by the ear it sounds like its making up to 2000 rpm at least before it falls apart with smoke and popping.

narrowing down to injector problem or IP internal disorder.

infidel

Your fuel pressure is too low, should be at least 17 psi at idle but more often 22-25.
Since you pinched the line and had a pressure increase it points to a bad overflow valve.

1-5-3-6-2-4

thats a solid point there. I'll get around to putting a helper spring in the O/F valve when we swap the pump. but it doesn't at all address the engines problem. with the return line squeezed and 40 psi on the guage. if runs exactly the same. and does exactly the same thing it did with 11.5*, 12.3*, 16.5* deg timing. I'm not putting it back up to 8.6mm plunger lift to see what happens. that might have been a mask for a pre-existing problem.

Lil Dog

That timing number just seems crazy to me..

infidel

Could it be the timing lift numbers you're using don't match the pump?
Maybe the pump isn't what you think it is.

Tate

He said its an 838 pump, which to the best of my knowledge is a 160hp pump. He also said that when it is at factory lift setting, the timing pin arm inside the pump is dead center in the hole, which indicates that the pump is what we think it is.

1-5-3-6-2-4

yup i visually verified 838 pump. on the bosch tag. we dialed 12mm total lift @ more than 360* duration so its impossible to be timed to 1/2 cycle out. and it idles great. thats what kills me. blowby is not excessive either. I didn't put a manometer on it but the old hand over breather says its not bad. removed the fuel heater, replaced the prefilter screen and orings. my fuel tank and float assembly is all new. the lines are in very good shape from tank to engine.

so well 50/50 injectors problem or IP internal problem.