95 12 vave headlight switch wires melting HELP!!
i smelled something burning and seen smokke coming from my headlight switch tore dash apart took headlight switch out and the wires were melted from the switch to all the way under the dash what happend and how do i fix this?? thx for any help
That's a common problem with the 2nd gens. You will need to replace the headlight switch and pigtail, if I remember right the pigtail is available through the dealership and you can get the switch anywhere.
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If you have a 3500 and recall hasn't been done yet then it's covered by Chrysler. Safety Recall No. 819 -- Headlamp Switch
1994-1997 (BR) Dodge Ram 3500 Series Trucks
NOTE: This recall applies only to 3500 series trucks built through October 21, 1996 (MDH 1021XX).
1994-1997 (BR) Dodge Ram 3500 Series Trucks
NOTE: This recall applies only to 3500 series trucks built through October 21, 1996 (MDH 1021XX).
i replaced my switch twice in 4 years,i keep one in the glove box now they are $20 at carquest.my pigtail hasn't melted yet.the head lights just turn off in at the worst possible time,rain sharp turn blackest of night,i have driving lights for this reason.
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http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/819.htm
Recall adds relays to take the load off the switch.
I heard if you use the part number of the recall kit Rock auto can supply it cheaper than the dealer.
You must have had a trailer with lots of running lights plugged in at the time- or maybe a sport headlight upgrade without the relay? I put the 819 recall kit that takes the load off the park lamp side into my 1995 2500, working great!
On my '95, long ago, I installed relays to take the load off the switch. Relays apply power to the lights from battery source, switch runs the relays. Still on my OEM switch and no problems.
Same thing happened in my 94 2500. No recall for that. So I did a quick fix. Found the light green wire for the headlight in the pig tail. Pushed it thru and cut off end. Spliced a heavy gauge wire to it, then ran down the dash to a 30amp switch. If you use anything lighter it will heat up, the 30 stays cool. Ran thru the fire wall to battery, spliced a fuse plug in between and hooked to battery with alligator clip. Put a 25-30amp flat fuse in and you have your headlights back. All my regular lights still work from the switch. Now to nuke some time and do the full relay conversion.
I installed Sport Headlights in my '95 years ago and at that time hooked both Hi and Lo beams to relays. Now the only current that goes through the switch is the small amount needed to flip the relay--the heavy load goes through the relays. This keeps the switch cool and prolongs it's life.
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