I just got my 3k gsk in the mail and a new overflow valve. whos got some helpful pointers on a painless install?

 

This should help. I like to go from the side. No way off dropping parts in the pump. Just have a good magnet and take your time.
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=30

 

On the 3gsk definetely go in from the side. Once you get in there you will figure it out. When you remove the shutoff solenoid remove all the linkage. It is just one 8mm bolt to loosen and slide it off. I just removed the solenoid and when it was time to put the view cover lid (7/16 i think) back on i took about 30-45 min. trying to thread it on. I couldn't get it threaded. Once I took the linkage off it took about 5 seconds. Good luck, it's really not bad at all.

 

While you have the shutoff solenoid off, its a good time to adjust it for proper operation.

 

For the OFV

go ahead and take a small round file to the area where you will be removing the valve. so taht it makes it easier to install it again without getting it problematic to realign. Takes me all of two minutes start to finish with two 3/4 inch wrenches but with the area around it ground down it makes it so much easier than the first time that i did it...

trust me on this one

Rick

 

sounds good. ive got the shut off solenoid off and the afc housing off and the fuel plate out but my calipers are too big to go into the pump to measure the threads over the springs on the 3k gsk so can I count turns to back it off or do you need that measurement?

 

I succeeded at the governor kit. easy install thanks guys.

 

I just took a small screwdriver and eyeballed about where it needed to be (put the screwdriver on the nut and measured against the stud). I don't know if it was luck or I have a good eye but it all worked out ok. My idle raised about 150-200rpm but it idled a little to low in the first place. I didn't have to re-adjust the idle.

 

yeah I counted threads and that should fet me close. within a 1/4 turn as where it was.

 

you guys must be contoursionist(spelling), because going in through the side seemed like a huge pain to get down there to see what ur doing. I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend going through the top of the pump. I just stuffed a paper towel around the gsk perch so i couldn't drop anything.

 

I never read a mention of what year truck and transmission. A 1/4 turn sometimes makes a big difference.

Make sure your throttle response is nice and linear. When you push the peddle slowly, rpm should increase slowly with out any hesitation or sudden jumps.

 

sorry. if I go back into the gsk to adjust the idle if need be do I need to adjust both springs? Also, which way is which on the adjustment for faster and slower idle?

 

If you feel the springs are good, you can adjust the idle from the outside of the pump. Its on the back of the pump down on the bottom. Its what the linkage stops on.
What kind of rpms do you see before it defuels? It should be about 3200 then defuel. If its more than that your springs are to tight. 1 click should do it.

 

My experience with 94 pumps is the governor springs tend to be about 1 click loose from the factory. Make sure you start no looser than stock and probably one click tighter.
This is where going in from the side really helps. You can push directly on the spring stack and get a feel for the compression.
To go in from the side you have to pull the fuel shut off lever. DO NOT loose the very small half moon key on the shaft.

 

K. clarifies that. I think the side was easier. I concur DO NOT (and that means watch out) lose the half moon keyway in the shaft. I got mine out right away and then dropped it when I was reassembling but found it again. whew! I agree that you can feel the spring tension and mine feels tighter even with the same amount of pre load on the lock nut. I wondered if the idle stop on the pump would work too. answers that. So I assume you adjust both springs to get the proper RPM?