Bought my 96 CTD a few months ago and have been very happy with it. Since winter has set in I've found a couple of flaws in it. <br><br>1. After trying to shift into 4WD at 70 mph on icy roads I decided I would need to look into replacing the auto hubs with manuals. HAH!!! The 2 piece axle and the vacuum shift kinda stopped that thinking. <br>(A) Is the vacuum motor likely to have degraded in performance so that a rebuild or replacement would improve its operation? Any suggestions on figuring this out?<br>(B) Is there a practical way to make it a quicker reacting manual setup? <br><br>2. How can I tell if it has a limited slip differential in the rear axle without tearing it apart? <br>It s/b a Dana 70 and I get a lot of 1 wheel spinning when I'm not in 4WD. Either it does not have a limited slip or it is worn out. <br>

 

If you do not have any friction at all on the clutches, go ahead and pull the cover and see if you have an open or posi differential.<br><br>It is a good idea to pull the cover every few years anyway, just to be able to clean everything out of the housing.<br><br>I sent you an e-mail on the hubs issue. I have done it a number of times, it takes a trip to a wrecking yard, and it is easy if you have the tools and are familar with the Dana front end.

 

I have seen some companies listing a kit to eliminate the vacuum actuator and replace it with a cable. then the front end will engage sooner. Check with ARB, or some other aftermarket axle companies.

 

Freeloader, the vaccum motor could be the problem. The diaphram in it sometimes tends to develope holes in it allowing loss of vacuum pressure, therefore the shift fork will not move to engage the axle. There is a setup which I run, called the Posi-cable lok actuator, which allows you to engage the front axle via a cable routed to inside the cab. Its a much better design than the vacuum system, and runs about $200. Ive been real happy with it-<br>heres a site-<br>http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/dodge_page.html<br><br>There also is a company that offers a manual locking hub conversion specifically for our trucks. I plan on doing this eventually- it runs around $1300 for the whole kit, and it includes everything<br>check it out-<br>http://www.rightgear.com/welcome.htm<br><br>and, RCW- Could you also send me some details on the conversions youve done, how and what is needed. Thanks<br>Chris