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12 valve will not start after fuel filter change

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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 06:19 PM
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From: Southwest Wyoming
12 valve will not start after fuel filter change

I have a 95 automatic that I recently traded for. It ran great and started every time but was due for a fuel filter. I changed the fuel filter today and it was much more challenging than my 98 12 valve. After I got it all back together, I pumped the primer hoping to hear the squeal of fuel hitting the overflow valve. I pumped forever and heard no squeal. Tried to start numerous times and sounded like it was fuel starved. Opened the bleeder bolt on top of the filter housing and pumped some more. Seemed to get all the air out but still no start. Additionally, after leaving the truck for awhile and coming back, I could open the bleeder bolt and get more air out until it started squirting fuel. Has anyone ever experienced this?

Thanks
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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 06:23 PM
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From: Las Vegas
did you fill the filter with fuel before you put it on?
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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 06:24 PM
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Didn't the first time as I never had to with the 98. However after pumping for an hour on the primer I took the filter back off and filled with fuel.
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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 07:31 PM
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From: Navarre , FL
HI i just had that happen to me was thinking it was the fuel hoses, i called

Precision Diesel Injection & Turbo Inc
Marty Tompkins
1286 Cedar Street, Holt, MI 48842
(517) 694-1522

asked him a bunch of things, as soon as i told him what i did before it happened
( changed fuel filter) he sayed lift pump, just installed a new one and starts up just like before, hope this helps you
jman
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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 07:43 PM
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From: Montana
If you cranked it with air in the filter now your injection pump is airlocked. You'll have to crack open the lines at at least three injectors, crank it till fuel appears, tighten down the lines and start. It will run bad for a little while but pull out of it. I usually give it full throttle while doing this.

Tips for a '95:
Next time remove the two nuts that hold the brake master cylinder to the brake booster and pull off the large vacuum line to the booster. Now you can pull the master cylinder towards the driver's side to make room to get at the filter very easily. The cylinder looks hard to move but does so very easily.
If the engine is stopped with the cam lobe pushing on the lift pump actuator arm the primer button won't work well if at all, bump the engine to reposition the cam.
I personally never pre-fill the filter, what I do is open the bleed screw then pressurize the fuel tank with an air blow gun wrapped in a rag though the fuel fill hose. Takes about 15 seconds to fill the filter and bleed the air. Do not exceed 10 psi.
If you don't have a compressor pump away but use a wooden dowel to save your thumb.
Another alternative to pumping the lift pump to fill and bleed is to disconnect the wires to the shut down solenoid and crank the engine. Just don't overheat the starter. Five seconds of cranking will equal at least 25 thumb pumps.
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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 07:50 PM
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I finally just cracked the injector line on #3 cylinder and cranked till she started. It ran rough for a few seconds but when the line was tightened back down it smoothed right out. Let it run for about 10 minutes turned it off and it started up again. Tried that before I saw the need to crack three and tighten back up before actually starting. Thanks everyone!
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