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Getting ready for paint

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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 07:33 AM
  #1  
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Getting ready for paint

I was wanting to get some paint on the truck and knew I had some issues such as:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212409462
So I picked up another bed which was in real nice shape, it was from an ex forrestry truck. Found a great way to work on the underside for cleaning and painting.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212409541

I also found the cab roof rot which I wasn't expecting but had to address.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212409724

I knew I had cowl cracks on both sides and had to form up my own doublers.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212409839

I will also be painting the frame while it is stripped down this far.
Attached Thumbnails Getting ready for paint-im000382.jpg   Getting ready for paint-im000373.jpg   Getting ready for paint-im000386.jpg   Getting ready for paint-im000393.jpg  
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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Mine is all apart right now for painting. Not a cheap endeavor.
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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Yeah, but I have to address it now if I'm going to keep it.
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 03:07 PM
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looks good, want to come and do mine? i too am in the proccess of fixing up some rusted trouble spots. it is my first time doing body work so it is a learning experience for me.
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 04:02 PM
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that looks like a nice cowl patch!

rjm
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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Thanks, here's what I did. The left side was the worst crack wise, as it went to the windshield. After cleaning the old paint and grinding the factory weld, I welded all the cracks and ground them down smooth. Next I cut a paper template for an idea on how to shape the repair patch. I pre-drilled the repair doubler and applied weld-thru coating on the cowl and doubler. I started on the "high areas" and formed the patch to fit. Next I cut the forward part of the doubler and welded it and also welded the seam of the two pieces together. After some seam sealant and paint, only you guys will know to look in there. All you "real" welders, please don't be too critical.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212450159

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212450159

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212450159

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212450283

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1212450283
Attached Thumbnails Getting ready for paint-im000383.jpg   Getting ready for paint-im000387.jpg   Getting ready for paint-im000389.jpg   Getting ready for paint-im000391.jpg   Getting ready for paint-im000392.jpg  

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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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I want to get mine repainted but I'm not sure if the huge dent in the back of the cab is fixable, not sure what hit it but thats how I got it. And the bed has a few dents in it as well.
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 07:59 PM
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Hey how did you do the roof?? It looks like you just cut out the old metal and put in new stuff. Was it hard. Mine has the same problem I need to address soon. Thanks. Looks sweet though man nothing like a nice straight body and crisp new paint.
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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did you paint or coat the under side of the bed? what did you use?
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 08:38 PM
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Im sooooo jealous. You have a nice clean backhoe, concrete pad to work on and a multi bay shop/garage. That is exactly the setup I dream of. And, you do nice work. I gotta do a roof repair on a gasser, let me now how ya went about it. Lookin for ideas outta the box.

PS you have a nice stable of toys also. Love the old D- series 413 powered trucks, had a couple 800s myself.

Last edited by powerrammaster; Jun 2, 2008 at 08:43 PM. Reason: forgot to add...
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 09:16 PM
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The roof caught me by surprise, I didn't think I had that problem. I cut out all the bad metal (which is ALWAYS larger than it appears from the outside) and spot blasted all the surrounding area and the inside structure then primed. There is a stiffener between the outer roof panel and the inner roof panel, this is what I welded the first piece to which I cut in an arc to match the roof line, I left this piece long so I had some material to form the drip rail. Next I welded in the patch. Then I formed the extra length I left for a drip rail with a hammer and dolly and trimmed. After that I tacked on a 1/2" wide "edge" for the front of the whole mess. I also, using a large syringe filled with rust encapsulator, shot across the inside leading edge of the roof line, just because. Now this gets it close and with the visor back on, only you guys will know.

The underside of that bed only needed a pressure wash, scuff and paint. Where there was some surface rust, I cleaned as well as I could and hit it with rust encapsulator and then paint. I have 5 gallons of a preserving oil that dries firm which I was thinking of spraying on the underside.

Now I don't work for or have any affiliation with Eastwood and there are several products which will produce similar results, so the choice is yours.

On that backhoe, about 5 years ago I had to rebuild the little Perkins, so while the machine was "split", that was the time to paint.

Thanks for the compliments, I hope I might help a little as I've gotten help in the past.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 05:11 PM
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Hey thanks man I appreciate it, gives me an idea of what i am looking at for time and labor on my roof rust. Why do they all rust there i wonder. Hope your truck turns out well.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 05:31 PM
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With no intent of criticism - please be extremely careful when working under anything that is being hydraulically held up in the air without any additional mechanical support. About 20 years ago there was a local contractor installing a concrete culvert using a back hoe. The fellow who was guiding it into position was killed when a hose on the hoe ruptured. He was pinned between the hoe and culvert. Since that time I will not walk under anything supported in this matter.
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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I appreciate the safety advice, you can never seem to be reminded enough times. With that, I admit I that I have taken some chances even though I am relying on those hoses. Lowering the bed and some sawhorses under would also be wise.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 03:08 PM
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Here's the cab stripped of all the factory finish and someone elses repaint. After stripping I da'd the bare metal with 180 grit paper. I gutted the interrior except for the dash. I wasn't going to do the jambs but I decided to anyway so they just got scuffed.
I see why they had a problem with that factory paint as it was very soft but the factory primer adhered very well to the metal.
After a prep wash I will spray epoxy primer then address the body work. Stripping showed more bondo work than I knew about but at least it wasn't covering rust...man I hate doing bondo work as it just takes me a long time to get it right, I gotta hand it to the pros as they make it look so easy.



https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&d=1213127833
Attached Thumbnails Getting ready for paint-im000408.jpg  
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