lets talk brakes
#1
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lets talk brakes
Time to do this for summer. My right front is slight warped. Got them really hot a couple months ago and pads are glazed. The pads have 40% left backs are 70%. Mind you the last brake job was 2010. I have never really had issues.
So I could do the 3rd gen set up or
keep the rears turn rotors since they should be turnable. Fronts since im stop go daily driver and not easy at times should I go with a slotted or dimple style?
I can get hawk pads and EBC at a good price. Are these or another type best with performance rotors?
Im not concered about dust. Just hate brakes that make alot of noise.
Here soon im going back to 35" tires so that will make the brakes happier.
give me your thoughts.
So I could do the 3rd gen set up or
keep the rears turn rotors since they should be turnable. Fronts since im stop go daily driver and not easy at times should I go with a slotted or dimple style?
I can get hawk pads and EBC at a good price. Are these or another type best with performance rotors?
Im not concered about dust. Just hate brakes that make alot of noise.
Here soon im going back to 35" tires so that will make the brakes happier.
give me your thoughts.
#7
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Slotted/cross drilled rotors aren't worth the hassle for several reasons. They eat pads faster, and have numerous points (the holes) where cracking can occur.
Not sure about the thrird gen brakes, because of the different axles. 2nd gens used Dana axles, 3rd gens have AAM axles. So I'm not sure if the axle flanges are the same between the two or not.
What ever you end up with, do yourself a favor and use a torque wrench when you tighten your lugs. Doing that helps tremendously to not warp the rotors.
Not sure about the thrird gen brakes, because of the different axles. 2nd gens used Dana axles, 3rd gens have AAM axles. So I'm not sure if the axle flanges are the same between the two or not.
What ever you end up with, do yourself a favor and use a torque wrench when you tighten your lugs. Doing that helps tremendously to not warp the rotors.
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#8
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The 01 and 02 with front disk brakes the 3ed gen is a direct bolt on you need to change calipers and rotors and 3ed gen disk. The EBC slotted and dimpled rotors work well I have used them twice over 350000 km on the truck. Stay away from crossed drilled as they will crack under extreme heat ,heavy loads.
#9
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Cool. Thanks for the info.
Would it be a issue if I just convert the front discs to 3rd gen style and leave my rear disc the oem size?
this would cut down on cost. I can resurface the rears and put new pads on then 3rd gen up front?
rotors... if I did non slotted what brands to use?
Would it be a issue if I just convert the front discs to 3rd gen style and leave my rear disc the oem size?
this would cut down on cost. I can resurface the rears and put new pads on then 3rd gen up front?
rotors... if I did non slotted what brands to use?
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If you do 3ed gen front brakes you have to go to 17" rims I am not sure if you can do the same on the rear never tried that. When you do rear disk change out the calipers, pushing them in never work on the rear I find the rear eats to much road dirt over the years and the pistons corrode and hang up when you push them in.
#11
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Slotted and drilled/dimpled yields 9% less rotor surface.
I did it on my '98.5 and reverted back to stock rotors in no time.
EBC was not around back then. As suggested they might have the answer.
An exhaust brake finally gave me stopping power.
I did it on my '98.5 and reverted back to stock rotors in no time.
EBC was not around back then. As suggested they might have the answer.
An exhaust brake finally gave me stopping power.
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If you do 3ed gen front brakes you have to go to 17" rims I am not sure if you can do the same on the rear never tried that. When you do rear disk change out the calipers, pushing them in never work on the rear I find the rear eats to much road dirt over the years and the pistons corrode and hang up when you push them in.
prices for oem replacement and price for 3rd gen conversion.
I think since I will be replacing all fluid of course. my brake lines are oem. I have a lift and that means a extension piece.
I think I will look into new brake lines that are stainless and coated.
#13
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Keep in mind what I said about the torque wrench and using that to tighten your lug nuts, not matter what disk setup you choose.
I recently had my left rear disc overheat several times due to a sticking caliper (that thread is further down the page). Measured in the 300-500º rage on the infrared temperature gun I have. I have new calipers on there now, but the rotor survived and did not get warped.
I recently had my left rear disc overheat several times due to a sticking caliper (that thread is further down the page). Measured in the 300-500º rage on the infrared temperature gun I have. I have new calipers on there now, but the rotor survived and did not get warped.
#14
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IIRC you also need the third gen caliper brackets. The calipers won't fit on the 2nd gen brackets...
I always torque the lugs to 140 ft lbs on my truck and haven't warped a rotor in 10 years/100K miles.
The rear discs don't really do much compared to the fronts, keep them 2nd gen and save some dough....
I always torque the lugs to 140 ft lbs on my truck and haven't warped a rotor in 10 years/100K miles.
The rear discs don't really do much compared to the fronts, keep them 2nd gen and save some dough....
#15
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I got slotted Carbon Z rotors frome brake warehouse . com about 4 yrs ago. I love them. The stopping is smooth and even with less fade then I used to get. But the biggest difference I notice is how much better wet braking is.
I'm not sure why people think slotting or drilling is bad, just about EVERY high performance braking system has some combination of them.
Also neat about these is they are galvanized. 4 yrs of finding every puddle so I can play tug boat and they are still silver looking with no honking rust clogging up the vents on the rotor.
I'm not sure why people think slotting or drilling is bad, just about EVERY high performance braking system has some combination of them.
Also neat about these is they are galvanized. 4 yrs of finding every puddle so I can play tug boat and they are still silver looking with no honking rust clogging up the vents on the rotor.
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