16 cm holset
#31
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Unholy cow that thing looks like it put up a battle . Not to hijack your thread but do these things need to be balanced when you play with inner guts or are they zero balanced .
#32
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What do you do for a living, may I ask ? Do you have proof they will fail ? Can you provide a link of your evidence ?
I talked to the guys who sold me these parts. They said because the new blade is pre balanced, . they said that 90 percent of the purchasers of these wheels do not balance them. Also said that they do not get calls of catastrophic failures.
Should it be balanced? Sure
Does it have to be ?
No, not what I've been told.
Why would they tell me no, if imminent damage was possible, more importantly ....likely ?
Will I have it balanced ? If I can find a shop that has the equipment, yes. If not, I guess I'm winging it, just like 90% of the other purchasers of these wheels
#33
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I keep hearing people trying to make that claim, but it only applies to a very small number of models in specific serial number ranges. According to Holset's data which can be found on their web sight, ours aren't among them. IIRC, the key indicator is the type of nut they used. Mine has been on for 8 or so years and hasn't blown up yet. The first truck it was on boosted it to 35psi regularly. The truck its on now hits around 30.
#34
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Mr NJTman I am a millwright so if I am involved with balancing it is usually on rotating masses of 1000 s of pounds not ounces. The only experience with automotive style balancing is watching a buddy who has a machine shop and balancing company work on racing style turbo stuff . I only asked a general Question I did not say these would fail if not balanced . And you answered my Question I did not know that they came pre balanced.
#35
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Mr NJTman I am a millwright so if I am involved with balancing it is usually on rotating masses of 1000 s of pounds not ounces. The only experience with automotive style balancing is watching a buddy who has a machine shop and balancing company work on racing style turbo stuff . I only asked a general Question I did not say these would fail if not balanced . And you answered my Question I did not know that they came pre balanced.
Sorry I misunderstood what you wrote. My bad
Before I ordered any parts, I contacted Gillett Diesel and spoke to their technician reggarding balancing after reassembly. He sounded extremely confident that I wouldn't run into issues after assembly as they order the blades balanced from Holset or whomever else manufactures them for sale. Thousands have been sold and installed by people who just throw them gether, and they still don't get many calls regarding failures. He could have been lying, but I made it known that I was referred by the folks here at DTR. I told him that they came highly recommended, and their reputation preceeds them. He probably would have urged me to get it balanced if he thought he would get blasted by an unhappy DTR member. I am not racing my old brick, so I don't anticipate any isssues
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crazy clem (07-06-2016)
#36
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#38
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We have been swapping parts on the bigger turbos for years with no balance problems.
We have had some pretty interesting failures though like a melted compressor wheel.
We have had some pretty interesting failures though like a melted compressor wheel.
#39
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So, during the summer, I installed my new16CM housing, turbo housing, wheel, and set the factory pin to it's deepest setting.
Truck runs great.
Wanted to drive it that way to be able to gauge any improvements the new pin would provide, once I put it in. Well, 4 months have gone by, and today, I decided to install my new GD Pin. Put it all together, with a new Bosch bellows on the top of the pin, and drove it around.
Runs great. Minimal smoke during acceleration. Seems a bit more peppy with the new pin.
So, after 15 minutes of going up and down the highway, I get back home and pull the pin to see the witness marks in the silicone grease to be able to gauge how deep the pin is going into the chamfer, to see if I'm getting the maximum power from the pin. Ran a little short, but still in there. I go to regrease the chamfer area, and I notice that the pin is scratched. I run my finger nail on there, and it's slightly grooved. I cleaned up the pin and found that the rod that comes out of the VE pump actually scored the chamfered surface of the pin. I called GD and spoke with Adam. He asked me to send him pictures, of which you see here.
I told him I'm going to drive it about for a while and see if it continues. even though he said that they "have the pins hardened after cutting", it seems as though (to me) it shouldn't be scratched or grooved at all.
I guess this is why you don't want to make your own pin unless you know a metallurgist who can set the pin to the proper rockwell hardness scale.
UGH.
BTW, if this remains an issue, they said they will replace the pin for me under their warranty.
Truck runs great.
Wanted to drive it that way to be able to gauge any improvements the new pin would provide, once I put it in. Well, 4 months have gone by, and today, I decided to install my new GD Pin. Put it all together, with a new Bosch bellows on the top of the pin, and drove it around.
Runs great. Minimal smoke during acceleration. Seems a bit more peppy with the new pin.
So, after 15 minutes of going up and down the highway, I get back home and pull the pin to see the witness marks in the silicone grease to be able to gauge how deep the pin is going into the chamfer, to see if I'm getting the maximum power from the pin. Ran a little short, but still in there. I go to regrease the chamfer area, and I notice that the pin is scratched. I run my finger nail on there, and it's slightly grooved. I cleaned up the pin and found that the rod that comes out of the VE pump actually scored the chamfered surface of the pin. I called GD and spoke with Adam. He asked me to send him pictures, of which you see here.
I told him I'm going to drive it about for a while and see if it continues. even though he said that they "have the pins hardened after cutting", it seems as though (to me) it shouldn't be scratched or grooved at all.
I guess this is why you don't want to make your own pin unless you know a metallurgist who can set the pin to the proper rockwell hardness scale.
UGH.
BTW, if this remains an issue, they said they will replace the pin for me under their warranty.
#40
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So, during the summer, I installed my new16CM housing, turbo housing, wheel, and set the factory pin to it's deepest setting.
Truck runs great.
Wanted to drive it that way to be able to gauge any improvements the new pin would provide, once I put it in. Well, 4 months have gone by, and today, I decided to install my new GD Pin. Put it all together, with a new Bosch bellows on the top of the pin, and drove it around.
Runs great. Minimal smoke during acceleration. Seems a bit more peppy with the new pin.
So, after 15 minutes of going up and down the highway, I get back home and pull the pin to see the witness marks in the silicone grease to be able to gauge how deep the pin is going into the chamfer, to see if I'm getting the maximum power from the pin. Ran a little short, but still in there. I go to regrease the chamfer area, and I notice that the pin is scratched. I run my finger nail on there, and it's slightly grooved. I cleaned up the pin and found that the rod that comes out of the VE pump actually scored the chamfered surface of the pin. I called GD and spoke with Adam. He asked me to send him pictures, of which you see here.
I told him I'm going to drive it about for a while and see if it continues. even though he said that they "have the pins hardened after cutting", it seems as though (to me) it shouldn't be scratched or grooved at all.
I guess this is why you don't want to make your own pin unless you know a metallurgist who can set the pin to the proper rockwell hardness scale.
UGH.
BTW, if this remains an issue, they said they will replace the pin for me under their warranty.
Truck runs great.
Wanted to drive it that way to be able to gauge any improvements the new pin would provide, once I put it in. Well, 4 months have gone by, and today, I decided to install my new GD Pin. Put it all together, with a new Bosch bellows on the top of the pin, and drove it around.
Runs great. Minimal smoke during acceleration. Seems a bit more peppy with the new pin.
So, after 15 minutes of going up and down the highway, I get back home and pull the pin to see the witness marks in the silicone grease to be able to gauge how deep the pin is going into the chamfer, to see if I'm getting the maximum power from the pin. Ran a little short, but still in there. I go to regrease the chamfer area, and I notice that the pin is scratched. I run my finger nail on there, and it's slightly grooved. I cleaned up the pin and found that the rod that comes out of the VE pump actually scored the chamfered surface of the pin. I called GD and spoke with Adam. He asked me to send him pictures, of which you see here.
I told him I'm going to drive it about for a while and see if it continues. even though he said that they "have the pins hardened after cutting", it seems as though (to me) it shouldn't be scratched or grooved at all.
I guess this is why you don't want to make your own pin unless you know a metallurgist who can set the pin to the proper rockwell hardness scale.
UGH.
BTW, if this remains an issue, they said they will replace the pin for me under their warranty.
#41
Registered User
Who made the pin? Also, you can run the pin without the nylon spacer or trim it down some if you think you really need it. I discarded mine when I first ran an M&H M2 on the 91.
#42
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I don't know. It came in the kit from Gillette Diesel as a matched set to the turbo upgrade I did.. The pitch / profile is nearly perfect, as my truck really runs great. I'll drive it around a bit, and once I get my hands on the bosch reseal kit, I'll dive into it again.
#43
Banned
a few of the other aftermarket pins i've seen have scored like that also. the stock pin is the only one i've found that doesn't, atleast not as quickly.
i would remove the white plastic washer to ensure you're getting to the deepest part of the pin. most aftermarket pins are designed to run without it.
any increase in max boost?
i would remove the white plastic washer to ensure you're getting to the deepest part of the pin. most aftermarket pins are designed to run without it.
any increase in max boost?
#44
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a few of the other aftermarket pins i've seen have scored like that also. the stock pin is the only one i've found that doesn't, atleast not as quickly.
i would remove the white plastic washer to ensure you're getting to the deepest part of the pin. most aftermarket pins are designed to run without it.
any increase in max boost?
i would remove the white plastic washer to ensure you're getting to the deepest part of the pin. most aftermarket pins are designed to run without it.
any increase in max boost?
#45
http://www.myholsetturbo.com/manuals/H1C_D_E_H2A.pdf
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