thechoochlyman

In my other thread, some people expressed that they would like to know how my install turned out, so here's a complete write up with everything I used in the swap.

Parts Required:
Vacuum Pump from 2nd gen 12 valve (the latter vacuum pump used on 1st gens may also work, but I didn't have one to try it with). There is also an oil supply line that attaches to the pump, so you will need the entire line along with all the fittings for it so you can attach it to your block.
Power Steering Pump from 24 valve (This pump has two return lines so you don't have to use a tee in the lines).
Hydroboost brake booster from 24 valve Dodge Cummins
All the stock lines that come with the hydroboost from the 24 valve truck - return line, hydro to gear, and PS to hydro.
About two quarts of power steering fluid - I bought a gallon just in case.
A means of adapting your brake lines to the new metric sizes. More on that later on.
Hopefully I haven't forgotten anything. I'll add it later if I have.

I started out my install by first putting in a new Red Head steering box. The old one had about 90 degrees of play in the shaft, so I wanted to get rid of that before I get the front end aligned.


The hydro unit (and MC) I bought used from a guy on another diesel forum. I believe it came off an '01.


(I know these aren't fully relevant, but I'm throwing them in for free. )






(If you ever have to remove a pitman arm, lots of heat and a puller will be your best friend.)

My truck is an '89, and came with the dual-canister vacuum pump. I almost cried when I saw where the lower bolt was that held it on, but I managed to get it out with this. It is a 15mm socket size FYI




Old stuff

thechoochlyman

Some shots of the new pump. You can see that the gears are identical other than the nipple on the end of the shaft.


The rear of the power steering pump


And yes, I put my old power steering fluid cap on the new pump.


Here you can see how I had to arrange the oil lines. I removed the plug from the left-hand side and put the oil supply line there. I then transferred the plug to the right-hand side where the oil pressure sender was located. It had to be placed elsewhere because the new PS unit was too long for it.


In order to install the 2nd gen booster, you must drill two new holes to the right-hand side of the hole for the mounting bolts.


The pump in place. I put a 1/2" vacuum cap on the pump because I don't need vacuum for anything now.


You must drill out the hole in the brake push rod to 1/2" before it will fit on the pedal rod in the cab. You may also want to shorten the rod or bend the pedal when you do this, because it causes the pedal to be raised up quite a bit higher than normal.

thechoochlyman

Where I relocated the oil pressure sender. I lengthened the wire going to it by about two feet.


Some lines attached. The attached line to the left is the power line between the Hydro and PS pump. The red line is 3/8" ID fuel hose I used for the return. The stock line from your parts truck will also work.




This is where things get tricky. The original fittings on my non-IC truck were 1/2" and 9/16". I had to change them to 12 and 14mm. I managed to adapt the smaller one with three different fittings, but I had to cut off the large one and splice on a smaller fitting for it to work. It took the guys at Napa about an hour to help me scrounge up what I needed there.


Here is what it will look like with most of the lines connected.

thechoochlyman

As you can see, I'm now only missing the final line going from the Hydro to the steering box. My parts dude didn't have it as his house, so I had to wait an extra day for it to arrive at Oreilly's. That one cost me $38.


Throttle bracket in place. I had to cut off the bottom half in order to facilitate the PS pump.


The chrome turndown I decided to use.


Here's a bottom-side shot of the oil line going to the vac pump.


Finally got the last line in place. I had to horseshoe it around the return line for it to fit properly.




As it looks now.



Now then, I didn't add this in above, but you can not use a 24 valve intake tube with this system. It sticks out too far and will hit the Master Cylinder. A stock 1st gen intercooled tube may not work, either. I custom fabbed that 3" pipe when I installed my turbo and intercooler last year.

Something I noticed, the strength of my power steering was significantly decreased after this install. I suppose the passing of the fluid first through the hydroboost takes most of its pressure. The steering is still good enough you can easily turn the wheel with one hand, though.

The braking power is AMAZING. Pressing down the pedal about 1" will bring the truck to a complete stop very quickly. Any more will make you skid. I can also hit the brakes multiple times in a row without the pedal getting stiff and hard to push. I would recommend this to anyone.

More relevant info:
If you decide to, say, cut off the rearmost mount of the hydro unit so it will sit flush with the firewall, you will have to lengthen your hoses somehow. I just want to note that the two fittings on the hydro unit are 16 and 18 mm. I thought they were the same size, and had to wait another three days because of it. Don't make that mistake.

BC847

Stuck.

oliver foster

Nice work Choochlyman.
What is the adjustable valve and what looks like boost pressure tube for on the hydro boost for?

thechoochlyman

Here ya go, Oliver

deanhinsley1963

wont you still need the vacuum pump for the heater and a/c unit?

Philip

Cool tubz's has a pattern for a tube that will clear the stock 2nd gen Dodge hydro boost setup on a 1st gen. He also has the lower tube covered.

I gave him the measuements a few years back. I have the prototype in my garage. I just haven't done a hydro boost swapout.

thechoochlyman

Actually, no. My truck is one of the very base-model ones without air vents or vacuum HVAC control.

lassy

SO the question is, did you see/feel improvements after the swap?

thechoochlyman

Yes, the difference is well-worth the effort and money.

BILTIT

There is a company (http://www.vancopbs.com/) that rebuilds and will modify ($280) the hydroboost which allows it to flow a higher volume of fluid. I think this would help the steering. Many offroaders use this mod when they add a hydraulic assist or full hydraulic ram. You can also increase the power steering pump pressure slightly to help out but it is a fine line.

I am assuming our pumps are the same as a saginaw? (i think they are).

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.co...rsteering.html

thechoochlyman

Bah, I'm not too worried about doing that. The brakes work extremely well, and the steering still woks, so I'm satisfied as is. I appreciate the info, though.

And yes, I believe our pumps are Saginaw.

EDIT: I'll probably have to upgrade to a Borgeson shaft sometime. The stock steering shaft was doing pretty well, but I think the extra force of turning the wheel is going to wear it out pretty quickly.

bryson711

Is the bolt pattern the same for the hydroboost to the firewall as the original brake booster?

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