Jaxom

Sorry, I couldn't resist but...

hy·men/ˈhīmən/

Noun: A membrane that partially closes the opening of the vagina and whose presence is traditionally taken to be a mark of virginity.


Perhaps you meant Heim Joint?

ddbackhoe

maybe he was just being polite and not using the other words he was thinking about

Danavilla

Just as information for those who might care, my '06 "Jake" brake was installed by the dealer before I took delivery.

It does have the warm-up feature that keeps the brake engaged at idle until a set temp. is acheived. It also has a "fast idle" feature that kicks in only in very cold weather.

The BD brake I had on my '98 could be adjusted with the linkage at the brake to provide more or less back pressure. With the stronger springs I set mine at 60 psi, using a pressure gauge tapped into the test port.

CoastalDav

OK Guys, So I spelled it wrong. Never heard of that kind of joint in my life.

Good One

Dave

TonyB

Dave,
Did you ever get this solved?

2 operating modes for the Exhaust Brake on my '06:
1) Warm up to 170F coolant temp; the exhaust brake closes, completely, sans the orifice opening. This places a load on the engine, making it burn a little more fuel, but it warms up quicker.
2) Braking when you let off the throttle, above 30mph.

If you have the Exhaust brake, I also suggest you get the High Idle enabled. It helps a LOT with cold warm up. You can idle the engine at 1100rpm, and engage the brake, when cold, to warm up the engine. However, if you idle the engine over 1100rpm, the brake disengages. The high idle also helps with the AC operation, when sitting in a drive through, or waiting for the wife to get out of the market!

Tony

CoastalDav

I have not totally resolved my issue yet. It may have to wait until November
when I can remove it and operate it as suggested above.

I did have a friend with a EB on a 2003 count the number of threads from the jam nut to the end of the threads ( I an't going there with name of the part anymore) He had 5 threads. I have either 4 or 5 remaining so I'm close compared to his.

How many threads do you have left on the rod? See the pic in my previous post on page 1.

Mine does have the warm up function that works. When it was first installed, it did not work even though there was movement in the arm. No noise was heard ( hiss ) Took it for a ride. No exhaust brake. Rod length was adjusted and it worked. Took it to Dodge and redid the computer programs.. It works great in cruise mode but just is not as strong as the previous EB I had on my
2000 3500.

Dave

AH64ID

I would not have adjusted the linkage without an exhaust back pressure gauge on. Since you shortened the rod you could be over pressurizing your system when using the EB above idle.

I wonder if you have an exhaust leak and that's why it's not working as well at idle and driving.

I am surprised you had have something reprogramed on the ECM, there should be no need for it.

Was your 2000 an auto? Same rear end gears?

You should probably hook up a backpressure gauge and see where you are at.

CoastalDav

The ECM was reprogramed to assure the brake was working correctly when operated on the Cruise Control. There is a new program for that feature, I was told. It checks the speed downhill using the EB while in cruise and shifts back to 3rd if the EB does not hold in OD. Shifts are smoother than before the EB was installed from OD to 3rd.

Don't see any signs of an exhaust leak. Been towing the fiver since July 29th.

The 2000 was an NV5600. Rear gears were 3:55's It would hold this trailer
at 55 on a 6% downhill grade in fifth (1:1) I have more R's in 3rd (1:1) with the 4:10's and the Auto. Will be in some good grades tomorrow and will know more than. Tranny has a TFI Tripple Lock Converter. It don't slip.

Don't have a back pressure guage, EGT's are normal as they were before the EB was installed. Power is the same.

Dave

AH64ID

Gotcha on the program, I thought someone told you it had to be enabled. Not sure on auto tunes as I have a manual.

The backpressure gauge is for when your braking, not driving. It will tell you if you set it too tight and are making too much pressure.

rebal

I think it is working , only because I have not seen a auto hold back as good as a stick, your last truck was a 6spd this one is an auto . or did i read this wrong?

CoastalDav

Could you do me a favor and count the number of threads showing on your jake EB.

thanks

Dave

CoastalDav

Last truck was a 6 speed (NV5600)

I completed the run from Chattanooga, TN to Gloucester VA last Monday and Tuesday running I-75, I-81, and I-64. The grades were much greater from Wythville (Exit 80 on I-81) to I-64. Truck ran all the grades in OD without any
downshifting, Edge on Tow, EGT's in some cases would approach 1300. When I saw that I would back down the cruise control one touch and the EGT's would drop. I did that 3 times on one grade. Was pulling 35 lbs of boost.

Going down the hills, the EB would hold within 1 mph in OD. Only once did I tap the brakes and that was I-64. Did not want the tranny to downshift which it will if it senses an increase in speed beyond what is programed.

If I could run 2150 rpm in OD, at 65 mph (4:56 gears) I think the EGT's would never get close to 1200. I ran one hill at 2100 (70 mph) and it just flew up the hill. I have been considering changing rear gears again since last year.
Will be running in the East Coast Mountains again when we leave Charleston, SC. running up I-26 to I-40 to Ashville. I will make up my mind in November when we get back in Florida. I burned an estimated 5 more gallons of fuel on the second day of the trip. Run was about 610 miles. Fuel burn was estimate at 57 gallons by the Transfer Flow Fuel Computer. That is usually with 1-2 gallons either way. Did not fill up in Gloucester, VA so I can't claim any mileage facts.

Gross Combined is 23,500 lbs. with 105 gallons of fuel on board.

As mentioned before I think I'm within one thread on the adjustment arm.

Dave

AH64ID

I can't take a look at it right now, but here's a pic.

CoastalDav

Thanks for the pic. I took a real close pic of mine and I'm 5 going on 6 threads remaining. Looks like yours (blown up) is 4 going on 5. So as I thought, mine is real close.

Had another friend said 4 or 5 on his.

Thanks

Dave

AH64ID

More threads would be less engagement, and less braking. You really need to hook up a back pressure gauge and see where your at. You could be over or under braking, and neither is desirable.