Snow and Weight in the rear
Snow and Weight in the rear
I just brought a DRW Dodge 4x4. Someone told me DRW is a mistake in snowy areas because the rear end will float and not go through snow very well? How much weight do I need to put in the back to prevent floating? Does anyone have experience with a DRW in heavy snow conditions?
Ok my last 2 trucks they were 2wd and needed a lil weight in the bed for help in the snow while in Germany. 1st truck had a layer of concrete pavers in the bed for a HOSS style "concrete bed liner" (search for it, its insane) and the second one i had i would just fill the truck with snow when it was nasty out and water it down till water came out the tailgate (the snow plow guy in Germany started dumping a scoop of snow into my bed for me when he came around in the mornings). I guess I could get about 50 gallons in the snow before it would not hold anymore water. Then i would let the cold keep it there for me. Figured I got about 500 lbs from the water and snow and could tell a big difference in the snow and slush. Made the ride a whole lot nicer in the rear also with less jumping over the speed bumps on post. Best part about the snow trick is it is self removing. Something i have heard of dually guys doing is removing the inners for a lil less float in the rear.
I've got a bunch of sandbags I throw in the back of my bed. I bought 10 70lb bags of sand and that really does the trick.
Another thing to remember is in the winter months, take your programmers off or turn them down. I was stacking last winter and I would have the hardest time getting going, 4wd or not.
Another thing to remember is in the winter months, take your programmers off or turn them down. I was stacking last winter and I would have the hardest time getting going, 4wd or not.
It is all relative.
With nothing in the back in 2WD with my "All Season" M+S Pirelli Scorpian STR A 265/70 17, if it was icy or very compacted snow, it would spin starting out. Solution was just to put it in 4WD. They did OK in compact snow or new snow to 6", once rolling in 2WD or 4WD.
With nothing in the back, in 2WD with really good snow tires (Nokian Hakkapellitta LT in 265/70 17 E) haven't really had an issue starting. In 4WD it would readily go through 10" of snow, when CalTrans lost control of the road during a storm. Problem was fitting by the snow plow when they couldn't push the snow off the road, without a blower, and the road was only 1-1/2 lanes wide.
With the 4,200 lb TC on the back for winter camping and skiing on the Nokian tires, it seemed like it could go anywhere on a normal road or ski area lot.
If CalTrans didn't plow out the SnoPark, after a two foot dump of wet snow over the weekend, then chains were needed on all wheels in 4WD to get out on Sunday. If you only have one set of chains, then mounted on the front in 4WD is better, because in deep wet snow, just having the chains on the outer rear would not give you much bite, as the inner would float too much. Dual triple chains solved that issue.
With nothing in the back in 2WD with my "All Season" M+S Pirelli Scorpian STR A 265/70 17, if it was icy or very compacted snow, it would spin starting out. Solution was just to put it in 4WD. They did OK in compact snow or new snow to 6", once rolling in 2WD or 4WD.
With nothing in the back, in 2WD with really good snow tires (Nokian Hakkapellitta LT in 265/70 17 E) haven't really had an issue starting. In 4WD it would readily go through 10" of snow, when CalTrans lost control of the road during a storm. Problem was fitting by the snow plow when they couldn't push the snow off the road, without a blower, and the road was only 1-1/2 lanes wide.
With the 4,200 lb TC on the back for winter camping and skiing on the Nokian tires, it seemed like it could go anywhere on a normal road or ski area lot.
If CalTrans didn't plow out the SnoPark, after a two foot dump of wet snow over the weekend, then chains were needed on all wheels in 4WD to get out on Sunday. If you only have one set of chains, then mounted on the front in 4WD is better, because in deep wet snow, just having the chains on the outer rear would not give you much bite, as the inner would float too much. Dual triple chains solved that issue.
No weight is what I use. I've lived in alaska for quite a while and use no extra weight. Starting about a month ago our roads turned to crap. The main roads, ie the hwy, are fine. All others are icy. I can drive most anywhere without issue. I don't even run the famous blizzak tyres up here. Why add the extra wieght to effect fuel mileage and wear on the uspension and other parts? On occasion I put it in 4wd to get going then it goes straight back to 2wd and that is the onyl special thing I do.
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The natives up here have dozens of words describing ice and its charicteristics....Terms decribing everything from **** frost to ancient blue glacier ice. Anyway once we start getting into the colder temps the ice feels sticky....reason being is you, your shoes and tires are warmer than the ice but it is so cold that anything warm will melt a microscopic layer and then freezes instantntly to where it is imposable to slip. Driving on ice at -30 below or colder is almost like dry pavement.
The natives up here have dozens of words describing ice and its charicteristics....Terms decribing everything from **** frost to ancient blue glacier ice. Anyway once we start getting into the colder temps the ice feels sticky....reason being is you, your shoes and tires are warmer than the ice but it is so cold that anything warm will melt a microscopic layer and then freezes instantntly to where it is imposable to slip. Driving on ice at -30 below or colder is almost like dry pavement.Thread
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