Polaraco

I use the rustoleum on non auto projects, like my trailer. I keep several quarts around here in stock. It's good stuff

I don't know about the meeting in the gap or Johnnies. I don't keep track of that stuff.

Keep up the good work. I'll be watching

SORTIE

I'm up for a meet, depending on date

NJTman

Waiting on parts to finish it.

Rear drivers side frame



Rear passenger side frame






Need to do some touchups before calling it finished ..... for this year.

BearKiller

Looking good.

You said you used a "pump sprayer" for the rust-converter stuff.

Did you mean like a Windex bottle, or did you mean like a 3-gallon garden-sprayer ??


How did you buy the stuff, in quart bottles or in much larger quantity ??

How much did the job take ??

Thanks.

NJTman

BK

I bought 1 gallon sprayer, as it's small enough to maneuver around. Don't overpump it, as the lower the pressure, the better. The stuff burns, and a strong gust will make you wish you hadn't. You will need to cover yourself completely, with splash goggles. It WILL BLIND YOU if exposure is great.

I bought them in one gallon containers. My local sherwin williams dealer sells them, but most don't stock the product, as per my request, they now do.

I'm at about a gallon and a half, but I did everything that has rust on it... bumpers, driveshaft, frame, inner cab mounts (no rust... just preventative), rocker wells (inside), Etc. You're really not required to topcoat in unexposed areas, so it's perfect for inside body panels. It continues to protect, long after application.

You should pay about $25 a bottle... although I get a contractor's discount @ my SW dealer.

I put the solution inside my bumper (Bumper on ground upside down) as I removed my bumpers to gain maximum access., and let it sit overnight. Where it pooled, the rust was completely gone, and fresh metal left behind. Really amazing stuff. Where it didn't pool, I had to reapply the next day. The key to using the stuff is letting it sit overnight, not exposing it to water


Good luck, and let me know how it works for you.



T.

TRENDZ

I have a suggestion for guys looking to save their trucks.
At the front of the rocker panels are oval sheetmetal covers. Unscrew them and remove them for access to the inside. Use compressed air and blow out the rockers. They get leaves/ sediment in them over the years.
It may sound crazy, but all the water that gets into the cowl area drains into the rockers, then out of drain holes in the lower rocker spotwelded area. If those holes get plugged, water just sits in there and the moisture eats the sheetmetal away. I cleaned and dried mine then painted inside them with a rust preventative coating similar to por15. If you want to coat them as I did it gets involved, but just blowing them out and cleaned would go a long way to saving the truck.

BearKiller

Actually, I had planned to just leave it with you a couple weeks and you give me a call when it's finished; seeing as how you already got your tools out and such.

NJTman

Cool,

I could use another dodge to beat on while it's here..... Since my lower back and neck strain, from crawling around (upside down) for the last two weeks, has really made me feel goooooood..

I've gone through more laundry detergent than one man should be able to . The wife is P.O'd

NJTman

Can you be more specific as to where ?

I pulled the rubber / plastic plugs out and washed out as much as I could of all what was in there. Didn't see a oval plug that was "screwed in".

Where abouts ??

Polaraco

I think he's talking about right behind the wheel where the front fender bolts to the rocker. That's a common place for the road dirt and sand to accumulater. When it gets wet, it stay wet a long time. Just flushing it out is usually good. But if the paint is degraded, you need to handle it with rust converters and appropriate coats. You'll need to take the lower bolts out of the rocker to really clean it right. Best to dismount the fender if you need to work it. A good Polyurothane like Nasson 2K will hold up much better in there. 1st gens were still enanal

The third gen doesn't seem to have the problem

TRENDZ

The plugs are on the firewall side of the rockers. The only way to access them is to remove the inner fenderwells. This is not as difficult as it may seem. The fenderwells come out through the bottom/ wheelwell. Removing them will also give you great access to clean out the lower fenders. I dont have any pictures of these plugs. Maybe someone has a picture of a bare cab firewall to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. The holes are about 2"x3" and allow a full view of the inner rocker. Alot of work, but well worth it in my opinion.

NJTman

Here's the truck with a new front suspension setup in it. I ordered new springs and had them add leaf glides in between each leaf, and two inches in increased height. The entire frame has been derusted, primed and coated. Today I removed the fuel tank and it was full of leaves behind there. Cleaned it all out, and applied the rust converter to it. Pictures came out blurry, so I won't post them.

Installed a new fuel sending unit and installed new u-joints in the rear driveshaft, including a new carrier bearing. The carrier was bad, so it was time for replacement, including the new joints.

Prime and paint behind the fuel tank tomorrow, and after a few days of drying, I'll put it all back together.


Can't tell you how much better this truck rides and handled, especially since I replaced those frame bushings. Truly amazed at the difference from the original springs. Night and day!


Again, Thank you Jim Lane for the thread about improving your ride. You were dead on, and those glides made a world of difference in how the truck rides. Great advice, well taken and appreciated.


T.

KRB

Let me know when you're ready to do mine...

GIT-R-DONE

Instead of spending all the hours like you did on yours, I am just going to spreay used motor oil under mine and do that every year......although I wish I could do what you have already done.

Subliminal

Ha. My truck does that all by itself sometimes. Although, I think it's gear oil more so than motor oil.

Cummins anti-corrosion system in full effect!