oldmuleskinner

I am doing a front brake job on my '05 Ram 2500 FWD 5.9L Auto. I need to remove the nut that holds the front rotor in place. I have a 1-5/8" 12 point socket that almost fits.

I think that a 1-11/16" would be the right choice, or is it by some odd chance a metric socket?

I would guess that the larger Dodge trucks are all non-metric, but my 2000 Expedition had a mix of metric and standard sizes.

Thanks for any info, and have a great day!!!

Crude dude

I havent done the brakes on mine yet but.....I dont believe that you need to remove that nut. Just unbolt the caliper and the rotor should come off of the hub. I believe the wheel holds it tight to the hub so maybe shoot some WD where the rotor meets the hub and use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood to knock it loose. I could be totally off but im guessing its the same as my 3/4 ton Chevy was (although that was IFS)

oldmuleskinner

I need to remove the rotor because it needs to be turned.

dodge35000

You don't need to remove the axle nut to remove the caliper. Just remove the caliper and the rotor will pull right off.

madhat

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

Make sure you look at the pic link at the top.

shep1

I've read that you shouldn't force the cylinders back if they are anti-lock brakes, that your supposed to crack the bleeder valve to push them back. Also When using the C-clamp, I use the old pad so I won't screw up the new one. Am I wrong about the anti-lock thing?

madhat

I have never heard that, but I'm just a shadetree. I'll have to look that up in the dealer pub and see what they say.

torquefan

It's preferable to crack the bleeder open when pushing back the piston on any system. As the system ages, dirt, grit and sediment all fall to the bottom of the system and end up in the calipers. Pushing back the piston without opening the bleeder just forces the dirty gritty fluid back through the whole system where it can do damage. This is more of a problem on an ABS system where there are more sensitive components, with tighter tolerances to worry about.

Crude dude

That is true about opening the bleeder. I used to work at the local Budweiser distributor and we had about 100 Astro vans and when doing the brake jobs some guys used to force the piston back with the pad spreaders and then the ABS light would come on and would quit working. Apparently the ABS motors do not like when the fluid is going the wrong direction and will shut down the ABS. We never had a problem once we started opening the bleeders.

elirandolph

no need to remove the nut. you only remove the nut to remove hub bearing assembly. You are correct it is a 1-11/16.

You do need to remove two bolts on the back side of the nuckle that holds the caliper bracket on. Once you remove it the rotor slides right off.