Yesterday I retorqued my head studs, so that required me to pull my fuel lines. Finished the job reasembled everything and then I bled the fuel lines (I have done this a billion times) Tightened everything up and it took me forever to get the truck started. I figured I had air in the line somewhere. Got it started drove around and everything was fine. Had to start it two time later on that night and it took at least 15 cranks to start. Go to start this morning and I cant get anything but white smoke out of the exhaust. Tried bleeding the lines again and fuel is comming out. I cant find leak anywhere in the lines. Could I have killed my lp? Before yesterday it started fine everytime. Oh yeah its not very cold here at all. Its about 70 right now.

 

Once the fuel makes it past the IP air isn't much of a problem, fuel will push it though. When the IP gets air it will air lock then the trouble begins.
If you removed the return line from the injectors to retorque that's where I suspect the problem is, air is getting in while parked, might need new copper washers. See if pumping the manual primer with the bleed screw on top of the filter housing expels air after it's parked, if it does you have a air leak somewhere.
Also check that your shutdown solenoid is pulling up, you may have knocked something loose while working on the head bolts.

 

Solenoid works, where is the bleed screw? I tried priming it and it seems like there is no air in the lines at all. Still no start.

 

The screw is on top of the outlet line on top of the filter, it takes a 10mm wrench.
Only needs to be opened a couple of turns to vent.

 

Well I vented the fuel and there was no air. I also had a buddy crank the truck while I had an injector line cracked and its seems to be getting plenty of fuel. The truck is trying to start but it just cant. I think my timing may have slipped or something.

Any other suggestions?

 

Since you're getting fuel aside from the timing slipping a lot the only other things it could be:
1) retorquing the head changed your valve clearances
2) not cranking fast enough due to run down batteries, sometimes a jumper cable isn't enough, you need to hook up to a battery charger.

 

how cold is it?

 

 

I was thinking voltage, I am going to hook up a charger tomorrow and check timing just for the hell of it.

 

I agree with Infidel that you need to check your valve clearance, as the marine headgasket is thicker and will compress more when it is torqued to the final setting on your aftermarket head studs. Although, the additional gasket squash is generally under .002" on the final torque. I would guess you recently installed the studs and headgasket, as if you have waited longer than a few hundred miles to retorqe the studs it is likely you broke the headgasket loose and may be losing compression.

White smoke is unburned fuel, so I would suspect low batteries or a slow starter.

If a good charge does not solve the starting problem, then I would look at the fuel drain (bleeder) manifold for the injectors, and be sure you have them all properly torqued so they do not let air infiltrate (if you removed it). It is usually a good idea to replace the copper seals anytime the drain manifold is removed. The same goes for the connectors on top of the delivery valves for the pressure lines, they like to leak air if not perfectly torqued.

Once you get everything checked, crack open the #1 injection line on top of #1 injector and crank the engine. Be sure it is pumping fuel, and then it shoud start.

I am sure, based on how you have your truck equipped, that you have new soft fuel lines. If not, be sure to replace them all. This includes the pick-up line in the tank, as it will crack and allow air infiltration once the tank gets down to about a quarter full.

If the problem persists, check the electrical connector on the fuel heater for air infiltration. Generally a good dab of dielectric grease inserted between the connector and the plug-in will stop that leak. Also, check the overflow valve to be sure it is working properly and not allowing the fuel to drain back when you shut down.

 

just making sure it wasnt you grid heaters
mine went out and it was very hard to start it

 

Well I found the problem today. The valves where out of wack. I was doing the timing when I pulled #1 valve cover and both intake and exhaust where closed and there was no play. I would have never guessed after a retorque I would have had to relash the valves again. It still doesnt explain how the truck ran a couple times before.

 

weird, hope nothing is shifting somehow??? Better be retourquing that head again soon. Seems odd that it would run and then the valves would be way tight.