what to look for in a '96 - '98?
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From: Morgan County, Utah
what to look for in a '96 - '98?
I'm probably going to cut my losses and give up on the truck (listed in sig) I'm borrowing from my dad. At minimum, it will take $4000 to repair and make it road worthy. Of course, then the transmission and clutch will more than likely fail shortly after. So, I'm probably going to bail out while I can. My preferred replacement would be a '98 4X4, Auto, 3.54's, Extra Cab, Long Bed, w/ 12V engine. However, I'll certainly buy an earlier truck, with the same items as above, if the price is right.
What should I be on the look out for when shopping for '98 or earlier 2nd Gen truck? What years had the Extra Cab and Long Bed? I need the long bed because I'll be putting a utility body on it, and I need the extra cab because I'll more than likely sell my daily driver and make the new truck my daily driver.
Thanks for the help. Roy
Edited - What was the first year that the Quad Cab was released? Not a real 3rd and 4th door, but just the ability to open the sides of the Extra Cab?
What should I be on the look out for when shopping for '98 or earlier 2nd Gen truck? What years had the Extra Cab and Long Bed? I need the long bed because I'll be putting a utility body on it, and I need the extra cab because I'll more than likely sell my daily driver and make the new truck my daily driver.
Thanks for the help. Roy
Edited - What was the first year that the Quad Cab was released? Not a real 3rd and 4th door, but just the ability to open the sides of the Extra Cab?
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From: New Holland, PA
Look out for the KDP, rusty doors, and wet carpet. If the truck has the death wobble, use it to talk the price down a bunch because it's not too expensive to fix. Quad cab came out in '98, so 12 valves with a quad cab are the kinda like the holy grail.
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From: NJ
i would stay away from the 3.54 rear and try and find a 4.10 diff. that makes it alot easier on a pretty weak 47re tranny. trust me i noticed a big diff going from a 3.54 to a 4.10, i now have no converter lockup problems or tranny problems.
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Death wobble? You mean when it just won't drive/brake straight or what? (due to worn track bars or misadjusted rear drums?)
KDP is more of something that'll need to be fixed than something to find though, I doubt many people know what you're asking about if you mentioned the KDP. But I'd try to keep on the lookout for a damaged timing housing in case the KDP already did its work.
Rusty inner tailgate lip is also a popular (or lack thereof) one so I hear.
From my understanding they 12V Quad Cab was only made for about 4 months which puts it at around 3000 made, all of the 94-97 trucks had the extended cab available but it was referred to as club cab and only had the two front doors to access the back seat.
I'd say the gear ratio you want is relative to what you plan on doing with it, 3.54s would get better mileage but 4.10s would pull easier. Since you've already owned a CTD with 3.54s I'll just leave it at that.
KDP is more of something that'll need to be fixed than something to find though, I doubt many people know what you're asking about if you mentioned the KDP. But I'd try to keep on the lookout for a damaged timing housing in case the KDP already did its work.
Rusty inner tailgate lip is also a popular (or lack thereof) one so I hear.From my understanding they 12V Quad Cab was only made for about 4 months which puts it at around 3000 made, all of the 94-97 trucks had the extended cab available but it was referred to as club cab and only had the two front doors to access the back seat.
I'd say the gear ratio you want is relative to what you plan on doing with it, 3.54s would get better mileage but 4.10s would pull easier. Since you've already owned a CTD with 3.54s I'll just leave it at that.
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From: Desert Northwest (Pasco WA)
After having 2 quadcab trucks and listening to the sqeaks, creaks and groans from the cab flex and windshield problems I'm happy to have my nice & quiet '96 Club Cab. I do miss the doors but not the noise.
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From: Morgan County, Utah
Hmm, interesting. Thanks for that info Vaughn MacKenzie. That's actually bad news to hear, because I kind of had my mind made up about the Quad Cab. I'd certainly be happy with a Club Cab though.
I don't think anybody answered this, so I'll ask again. Is there anything wrong with a '95? According to Kelly Blue Book, it was the first year the Club Cab came out in the 2nd Gen truck, so I just wanted to know if there any changes between the '95, '96, and '97 trucks.
I don't think anybody answered this, so I'll ask again. Is there anything wrong with a '95? According to Kelly Blue Book, it was the first year the Club Cab came out in the 2nd Gen truck, so I just wanted to know if there any changes between the '95, '96, and '97 trucks.
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Here are the list of common problems amongst the years.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/tro...2v_trouble.htm
I've heard they had a good deal of squeaks but nothing about cab flex or those other problems. After reading of them being 92-98dB at highway speeds I plan on tearing out the whole interior and adding at least one layer of a good sound deadner, I hear this rids of the vast majority of the squeaks and such.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/tro...2v_trouble.htm
I've heard they had a good deal of squeaks but nothing about cab flex or those other problems. After reading of them being 92-98dB at highway speeds I plan on tearing out the whole interior and adding at least one layer of a good sound deadner, I hear this rids of the vast majority of the squeaks and such.
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From: WEST MICHIGAN
Royta,
Bear with me but I think that the newer you get you may want to investigate the "53" block. All models take a look at the front cover (KDP). Also look into it some, but 96 up had more power in stock form along with the tranny going to electronics. Their are probably many more things to consider also, maybe some gurus
will chime in and add their .002. Most will agree 96-98 are the best.
Bear with me but I think that the newer you get you may want to investigate the "53" block. All models take a look at the front cover (KDP). Also look into it some, but 96 up had more power in stock form along with the tranny going to electronics. Their are probably many more things to consider also, maybe some gurus
will chime in and add their .002. Most will agree 96-98 are the best.
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From: Morgan County, Utah
Regarding the 53 blocks, I just wanted to verify that a Mexico or US assembled truck could have the 53 block, or the stronger Mexican manufactured block, correct?
I should only need to worry about finding a 53 block in a 1998 truck, and not a 1996 or 1997, correct?
I should only need to worry about finding a 53 block in a 1998 truck, and not a 1996 or 1997, correct?
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From: Montana
The only 12 valve that may have the 53 block is '98
Quite a few changes from '95 to '96, more power, hyd rather than vacuum assist brakes and 47 RE rather than 47RH auto tranny.
Specs are here
'96-'98> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/96specs.html
'94-'95> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/94specs.html
Quite a few changes from '95 to '96, more power, hyd rather than vacuum assist brakes and 47 RE rather than 47RH auto tranny.
Specs are here
'96-'98> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/96specs.html
'94-'95> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/94specs.html
Thread Starter
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From: Morgan County, Utah
I just hate the used truck shopping thing. I'm after a '96-'98 12V, White, 4WD, Auto, Club Cab, Long Bed. They're out there, but they're like 2000 miles away. Oh, it has to have 100 miles on the odometer and be less than $10,000.
Seriously though, autotrader.com is nice, but there could 20 or 30 of those exact same trucks for sale throughout Southern California, and I'd never know it unless I called, or visited, every single dealer. *bangs head against wall*
Seriously though, autotrader.com is nice, but there could 20 or 30 of those exact same trucks for sale throughout Southern California, and I'd never know it unless I called, or visited, every single dealer. *bangs head against wall*
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From: North Dakota
"If the truck has the death wobble, use it to talk the price down a bunch because it's not too expensive to fix.""
What is the death wobble you speak of? I have a 97 that has an irritating bounce at about 60 mph that I think has something to do with the balancing. It keeps throwing the weights off the rims. But it still seems to have it when they are still on and havent flung off yet. At 75 she is smooth and at 55 she is smooth too.
Any suggestions?
What is the death wobble you speak of? I have a 97 that has an irritating bounce at about 60 mph that I think has something to do with the balancing. It keeps throwing the weights off the rims. But it still seems to have it when they are still on and havent flung off yet. At 75 she is smooth and at 55 she is smooth too.
Any suggestions?
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I hate wheel weights so #$%ing much, I don't think I've had one vehicle they stay on yet. I've tried practically every shop in my city, so as far as keeping the wheels balanced I'm going to just take it to a shop that does adhesive weights inside the rim next time. That should at least help take care of that problem for you. Your tires may just be out of round too, cheaper tires are known for that (Goodyear Vivas on my MB are like that right now 
, replacing with some new Michelins).
, replacing with some new Michelins).