greenworks

I have been reading posts after searching on the subject of ball joints and am tired of reading near 2 hours being I am about to do them this weekend. Lots of guys refer to the " socket and steering pump to break the hub bearings" can some one detail this I read somewhere that infidel started it but I can't find the original post. Also some guys have stated that they prefer to not remove the hub bearing just pull the axle, is there any truth to this?.

What is the best way to do this job as I am tired of reading posts, please post if you HAVE done this and not heard some one else say what worked for them... as we all know watching or hearing about how to do it is alot different than actually doing it and bleeding and swearing etc

Thanks Jason

LanceD

the way I did mine was like if you are doing the passenger side one, turn the wheel all the way to the right so you can get easy access to the bolts, loosten them a tad and start hammering on the bolts, it should push the hub assembly out for you. at least I think thats how I did it, it was a while back.

infidel

It's simple. Instead of pounding on the bolts from behind wedge the socket on them as shown, start the engine and turn the steering wheel till it pops off. The large nut must be tight so the bearing doesn't pop apart.

atc250r

Yup. I did mine the same way the both times I cut the rotors. You can take the large nut off the middle, the bearings wont seperate since you are pushing on the hub itself via the bolts. It's a lot easier than it sounds, even my north easter truck didn't have any rust seized parts in there.

John

infidel

John, beg to differ.
The bearing can definitely get pulled apart unless the large nut is left tight.
You were just lucky.

atc250r

Interesting. I can't see how it could come apart. If the bearing is inside that "housing" that the 14mm 12pt bolts that hold the assembly on then if you push it out via those bolts you are removing the whole assembly. I can't see how the bearings could be affected at all by that. Not trying to argue, I'm just not seeing how that can seperate the bearings. If you press the bearing out by putting something against the rotor and turning the wheel then I could definitely see it seperating the bearings.

John

Mcmopar

The bolts push on the front retainer, not the bearing itself. You can separate them if you leave the nut off the axle. Ask me how I know

This is a unit bearing assembly, depending on the year and options, there are a few variances, but they are basically all the same.

Retainer, bearing one, spacer or tone ring, bearing two.

greenworks

I also read that you need to put the truck in 4x4 and lock the front end up so the coupler doesn't fall out is this true?

ONce the rotor is off then you use the socket & extension on the 9/16" 12 point bolts? then pop the hub do you ever unbolt the large nut as I DO NOt wnat to replace the bearing, I assume you need to remove the nut to pull the shaft?



I also read that this can't be done on a 4 whl ABS system but can I just move the ABS sensor to the side?


I think i am done with questions, it is half apart already and after these questions get answered I will dig in, the ball joints are easy I have done lots its the little quirks on all these trucks that scare me.... read bugger up a a bearing

Thanks Jason

infidel

Never heard of putting the truck in 4wd nor see the need.
With the socket and extension trick you will hear a loud pop when the bearing's ID breaks loose from the axle, then you can remove the large bolt and rotor with the bearing attached.
This will work on 4w abs, just watch that you don't break the tone ring by wedging it against the extension/socket. I think the only time people break the tone ring is when they try to do it by themselves and don't see what's actually going on down below.

greenworks

Just noticed I posted in the 12 Valve forum Should have been 24 valve

Thanks again

J

kawi600

That trick works like a charm. When I did mine the first time I tried using a gear puller on it, like Id done on some other chevy setup. Of course you can guess the results.
230$ later I had my new rotors on. Wow that was an expensive brake repair
When you replace hub, dont just pound in the studs. Youll need to crank them down with the lugnut so they really sink in, otherwise they may loosen up later.
Just dont snap a a stud doing it. I found a good impact wrench was plenty.

greenworks

OK fellas tried the "trick" no go in fact it started to bend the stabilizer arm bracket where the socket was resting when turning the wheel. I guess soak it and let it sit for tonight and cross my fingers tommorrow?

atc250r

I don't think you've got the socket/extension in the right place, nothing should be hitting the stabilizer arm bracket (assuming you mean the swaybar endlink bracket). Remove the calipers, pads, and pad brackets. Loosen all 4 bolts that hold the hub onto the knuckle (4-14mm 12pt bolts), remove two diagonal ones and leave two in about 1/4". Put the socket and a short (3 inch) extension on one of the remaning bolts. Have a helper turn the steering wheel so that the extension hits the front axle housing then when its all lined up have your helper turn the wheel to push the bolt which in turn pushes the hub out.

John

greenworks

Ya I was doing exactly what you said the brackets off the axle were bending when used like the picture infidel posted. I also tried a shorter extension and using the axle tube itself on both sides with no avail. Spent 8+ hours today banging and trying the socket thing with lots of pentrating oil but nothing. Any other suggestions. I left the hub bolts loose about 1/8" being I am only doing short little trips around town the next day maybe the pull from the tires will break it. Going to get a price a mechanics I guess, this will be the first thing I have ever had my truck in for.... makes me crazy to take it in. I guess we need a Canuck proof hub removal trick as the salt must really do a number up here.

Jason

1320

I too had serious problems getting it apart. Seems like some come apart some dont. I have a pretty well equipped 3200 ft shop and I broke two pullers trying. My truck is in a freinds driveline shop right now. I just don t like dealing with it, he can do it in 1 -2 hrs tops.

I recently lost / destroyed the right front wheel bearing/ hub which come to find out smoked the rotor too. He tried to get the hub assembly, they sent the wrong one, then I talked to emsoffroad.com, on a suggestion from someone from this site. Turns out they (ems) has a new product. Lock out hubs, that use readily available wheel bearing , not a sealed unit, and it comes with new rotors too. Its a very very very good price. Only a few hundred more then just doing the right side of mine with oem parts. Plus you get 2 lo, and maybe 1 more mpg.......and if you smoke a bearing again, you could do it almost anywhere and be able to get the parts (bearings) for like 40$.

EMS is waiting on some hardware, he did enough for 10 kits first, and should be able to ship in two weeks or so. They do not support abs at this time(2-4 months away), (I dont care as much as I like the other features) , and the wheels will probably move out 5/8's of an inch. Its not on his web site yet either. If you call him, tell him Jon from vegas with 98 told you.


HTH's, and I hope I can get mine next week.......