2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain Discussion for all Dodge Rams from 1994 through 2002. Please, no engine or drivetrain discussion.

Heater Fan Full Blast or Nothing

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 09:13 AM
  #1  
Korney's Avatar
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From: Cold Lake, AB
Heater Fan Full Blast or Nothing

I gots no fan till I turn it to full. Still works but I will wear my fan out fast running wide open for no reason. What do I have to change out?
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 09:27 AM
  #2  
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P.J
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From: Port Deposit, MD
Hmmm.
My wifes Stratus did the same thing (all summer long) we just went ahead and traded it in.


Seriously, Dunno. Other than it was NOT the switch itself or any relay/fuses, I swapped out the whole switch panel and it made no differnece. I ended up thinking it was the Blower itself and didn't have the time or knowledge to pull it apart.
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 11:00 AM
  #3  
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From: Caistor Centre, ON, Canada
It is usually the resistor that fails when you lose all your fan speed control other than full blast. I'm not certain where it is on our Rams as I have never needed to look for it but they are typically mounted near or on the heater/vent ducting. I'm sure someone will chime in with the location of the resistor.
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 05:18 PM
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From: Brentwood, CA - Dallas, Tx
It sounds like the resistors for the fan have burned out. You need to replace the resistor unit and that should solve your issue. Check in the engine compartment for the resistor unit. I've seen on early Dodge trucks that it is on the passenger side on the firewall. I'm not sure but take a look. Maybe someone will be able to be more specific on where the unit is located.

-CM
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 05:24 PM
  #5  
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From: Nebraska
It's the blower resistor for sure. It's about 1" x 3" a couple of wires with connectors. The resistor part is white ceramic. It's located passenger side floor, to the left (down stream) of the blower motor. I actually repaired mine and its fine. Maybe be an indication your fan is getting old. After 7-8 years it's time. It is pulling too much voltage and "melted" the solder conncetion on the resistor.

I'd replace the blower motor while you are at it. Around $60 at any parts store for a cheap one, but they are "noisey" electrically. Look closely at the old one and a new one at the parts store. If you want an original you'll need to go to the dealer and spend $160.

IMHO it was my new "electrically noisey" fan motor that caused by shifting in and out of overdrive fast problem. But I fixed that with a DTT noise filter and resetting the APPS per DTT instructions. That cost $50 so I was still ahead.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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From: Red Deer, Alberta
mine did the same thing when first bought it. i replaced the resistor and no change. took it in to the *********** and it ended up being an unhooked wire off the switch that controls your fan. they figured whomever i bought the truck off of unplugged it on purpose. got a new resistor out of it anyways.
Clay
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 10:55 PM
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From: Red Oak, NC- trapped in Raleigh though
I'll bring this back up b/c I am having the sme problem.

Can anyone give me a little heads up about what is involved in switch the resistors or blower motor?

thanks
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #8  
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The resistor is a quick, easy fix. Two screws and a small wiring harness. It took me 15 minutes to pull mine, wait for the soldering iron to warm up, repair it, and re-install it. Gieco266 gave a pretty good description of where to find it, but I don't really agree with replacing the blower motor. Of all the cars I've owned, putting 100k-300k on each of them, this is the first time I've had a problem. I really think it was just a poor solder joint and or poor design on the joint. Time will tell, and I'll post up if I end up having to fix mine again.
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