fuel torque plate
fuel torque plate
I have a couple questions. How hard it is to change and which one to go with. Its going on a 95 3500 auto. with 230,000 miles. New Injection pump, lift pump, and 180 hp injectors. ( was told when i bought i'm awaiting the receipts) also a rebuilt trans (1 year). I do some pulling of around 10000 lbs. to 20000 lbs. when i do pull a load which is only maybe 5 times a year.( a back-hoe and trailor alond with shovels wheel barrels etc...). Which plate would be good for me? Thanks
That all depends, was the auto rebuilt to stock specs? if so it won't hold up with any plate while towing 20000 lbs. Get what info you can get on the transmission, then get your guages, a pyro and trans temp for sure, I would probably say go with a well placed #10 if everything checks out.
I was told that the Trans was "BUILT MILDLY" and it has a pressure lock on it. my gauges are on the way (pyro, boost, and trans temp.) is there anything else i should check into before i jump into getting a plate? and how hard are they to change?
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i have a transgo shift kit and the line pressure turned up on mine with a TC and i have never felt it slip once, even trailering up mountains. with just a fuel plate #6 (or no plate at all) and the star wheel turned. if you want to test out a plate mod without spending 200 bucks just take it out. it is not too different from a modded plate but very different from stock. i would also reccomend a TC lockup switch. nearly free, easy to install, and you can put alot more power to the ground but if you do it on a stock converter you will slip it with anything more than 15 lbs of boost while using a modded plate or no plate.
Im sure some experienced guys on here will quickly tell you DONT REMOVE THE PLATE! or the afc govener arm for that matter.Removing them is what gives 12vs a bad name.Id simply grind yours and then you can slide it around for the best setup.The gsk kit will compliment that plate more than you can imagine
the lockup switch is not a good idea with a stock tranny i kno first hand. yes it is great at first but then it will start giving out on you. just save up and get a tc and valve body it is worth it. i have a 95 i was using a stock puel plate slid all the way back with the eyes ground and the afc arm removed and was pushing 34 psi and my transmision held up about 10 months
19'
Answering your question is going to be rather involved. It's all about how much power your looking for and how much your willing to spend.
First, I'd definately look at a VB & TC upgrade. I've gone the shift kit route and wound up replacing it with a VB that was properly bench set. The VB shifts much better than the kit. I'm sure I could have gotten the shift kit to work better, but adjustments get old quickly due to having to drop the pan repeatedly. Who to go with? Take your pick - any of the big tranny houses are, for the most part, good (DTT, ATS, Goerend, Suncoast, etc..). Same goes for the TC.
Second pulling that much weight, you'll find adding anything other than a small plate will drive EGTs through the roof. If that's all you want, I'd start with a #6 or #8.
Third if you want to go with a large plate, then you need more air - i.e. turbo. One other way around this is to run a valet switch which essentially runs the truck without letting the fueling arm to move forward for additional fueling. You turn this on only when towing and then can run 'full fuel' when empty.
I've only towed maybe 8k max (loaded car trailer), but my set up with the valet on keeps the EGTs below 1200F without any worries. Personally I'd start with the tranny. Tightening up the converter will make if quicker and reduce a lot of slipping (when unlocked) that your feeling.
Answering your question is going to be rather involved. It's all about how much power your looking for and how much your willing to spend.
First, I'd definately look at a VB & TC upgrade. I've gone the shift kit route and wound up replacing it with a VB that was properly bench set. The VB shifts much better than the kit. I'm sure I could have gotten the shift kit to work better, but adjustments get old quickly due to having to drop the pan repeatedly. Who to go with? Take your pick - any of the big tranny houses are, for the most part, good (DTT, ATS, Goerend, Suncoast, etc..). Same goes for the TC.
Second pulling that much weight, you'll find adding anything other than a small plate will drive EGTs through the roof. If that's all you want, I'd start with a #6 or #8.
Third if you want to go with a large plate, then you need more air - i.e. turbo. One other way around this is to run a valet switch which essentially runs the truck without letting the fueling arm to move forward for additional fueling. You turn this on only when towing and then can run 'full fuel' when empty.
I've only towed maybe 8k max (loaded car trailer), but my set up with the valet on keeps the EGTs below 1200F without any worries. Personally I'd start with the tranny. Tightening up the converter will make if quicker and reduce a lot of slipping (when unlocked) that your feeling.
Ok. Thanks Eveeryone... So in other words dont get a plate just modify the one i have and "beef" up the trans mission some more with a tc and vb.?.And if i did get a plate then go with a 6 8 or 10 ?
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Rockcrawler
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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