Common

Where the rear driveshaft connects to the yoke for the rear axle (duh!)

I have slight up/down, left/right movement of the yoke/gear itself, no leaks.

I took the drain plug off and had just enough metal shavings to coat the tip of my finger.

Has the pin been pulled?

Will this grenade?

What can I do?

Should I even worry about it?

J_T

I'm in the same boat!

I made the mistake of taking my truck for alignment and they looked through everything else while on the rack and told me the same! (as well as a few other surprises like play in front axle U-joints ) I know there is play and some up and down movement but they asked if I heard it making noise? (I reminded him I'm riding on mostly dead 35" A/T, Straight Piped, Diesel, in winter (windows rolled up)) I don't hear anything from the rear end...just notice play when power is removed like releasing the clutch putting it into gear or abruptly removed power like pulling from throttle instead of letting it back gradually.

How much play is normal in the rear end?

If the bearing is wearing...is it messing up my ring and pinion?

getblown5.9

if there is up/down, side movement of the entire pinion shaft (not rotating like backlash) then the bearings are worn and should be replaced ASAP

J_T

There is slight up/down, side-to-side movement, but still there.

There is also backlash!

Common

Backlash is OK...

Is your pinion seal leaking?

If not, I'd let it go...for now..

You WILL hear it make noise... like a howling...

How hard is it to replace the bearings?

Lunyfringe

Backlash is normal,if annoying...

I'd also check the nut- it's Two and 7/8" make sure it's tight before being positive it's the pinion bearing... ANY side-side or up/down is a failed pinion bearing- get the rearend rebuilt ASAP... you let it go too long and it can ruin the housing....

as far as how hard it is- it can be done, but you'll need some special tools, and the pinion depth has to be set properly or the rearend will self-destruct (wear out quickly)..

so in general, if you have to ask how hard it is, it's probably too advanced for you to tackle..

I just replaced the pinion seal on mine (and put a redi-sleeve on the yoke), but did not have ANYplay when trying to move by hand... replacing the seal does not require re-setting the pinion depth in a Dana 80, so it's an easier job.

Common

So the nut can be tightened?

Mine has no signs of a leak...

ccmckee

The torque of a dana 80 pinion nut is over 500ftlbs, so the chances of doing it yourself is slim unlessyou have a torque multiplier.

Common

$550 sound reasonable for a Pinion Bearing replacement?

I don't want this thing to grenade...

I mean, its gonna get worse, right?

Should I do it, like RIGHT NOW?

Common

Also, if I don't feel, hear or see anything other than the play, should I still replace the bearing?

torquefan

Yes, I would do it soon. If the pinion has play, chances are the carrier bearings do as well. Under load the gears will tend to push each other out of mesh, consequently, the load will be carried by the outer tips of the gear teeth, instead of full tooth-to-tooth mesh, which can cause tooth breakage and catastrophic failure. Fix it now before it costs you a gearset. They are big bucks on a Dana 80.

Common

Replaced the bearing and also changed the diff. fluid in the front...

Changed the tranny fluid as well...

Need95-00CTD

Being an ex test engineer for Dana/Spicer...your screwed if you don't replace those pinion bearings. Any play at all in the pinion gear and its time to be replaced. Your probably goin to need to be checking the ring gear and pinion itself, along with carrier bearings. You may be looking at a full rebuild, and if you don't know how to do it well, have somebody do it for you, but ask to watch...its nice to watch someone with experience so you get an idea of what they're doing. Just make sure you ask enough questions to learn, but not so many that you make the guy doing it go nuts!

Common

Um, it was just the pinion bearing, but thanks for looking out...