Hey folks.
I changed my master cylinder a while ago with a new non reman part. I also tried 2 different ones. I bench bled it until there was NO air coming through the lines, installed it, and bled the lines. New fluid out of all of the bleeder screws. I have a majorly spongy pedal.
After that I tried an "old mechanics trick", leaving the pedal fully depressed over night with the battery unplugged. This seemed to help my brakes get to the "useable" range.
BUT, they still pump up.

Are there any tricks to getting the air out of the system? I am at my wits end. I have done countless brakes before, and I have gotten other people to help who have gone over the whole system to make sure I didnt miss anything. When I bled the brakes, I pumped, waited 10 seconds, pumped, 10 seconds 3 times then released the bleeder.

Any advise would be muchly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

use a vacuum pump if you cant get the air out

 

Did you bleed the RWAL dump valve?

 

Here are pics of my homemade brake system pressure bleeding tool.



Do a search for My " Homemade Brake Bleeding Tool "

 

order for bleeding is as follows:
1. RWAL controller on drivers frame rail above the axle
2. passenger rear
3. drivers rear
4. passenger front
5. driver front

 

I like to let the system just gravity bleed for an hour.

 

I know it`s kinda $$pricey$$ BUT, THIS is the absolute best solution for stubborn hydraulic circiuts. I have one but I turn wrenches for a living. That said, you might want to try changing the attitude of the truck while bleeding (nose up/ tail up) as sometime air bublles will stash away in a bend. Another thing you can try is gently tapping along the lines/on the wheel cyls/calipers/dump valve as the bubbles might be adhered to casting walls and/or piston bores.

 

My bleeder screw broke off the rwal thing thing. How important is it to bleed this thing?
Im assuming by it being at the top of the bleed list the most important.

The RWAL light isnt on, and the front brakes lock up first. I dont have any pull on any of my wheels.

I think Im gonna bypass the RWAL if its absolutely necessary to bleed it. I really dont want to spend the 200 bucks and searching time on it.

If I use a power bleeder can I get around it?

Not trying to be a know-it-all, but to me it seems like the master is not bled properly. Whereas i know there was no bubbles coming through on the bench bleed. Hmmm...